I’m thinking my Sweet Sixteen apple tree on M26 after 6 seasons may be dead. The leaves have browned, the bark looks withered, and (most concerning) it looks like the graft union is cracked and flaking away.
Maybe someone has a different diagnosis but I’m worried I need to start shopping for a replacement tree.
Two things - Do you know what might have caused it to be stressed /possibly die (drought, disease, insects etc)? And check out the rootstock below the graft union if the tree above is dead. You may end up with a new shoot you can graft to, it’s pretty easy to do with apples and pears.
Good questions. Had a bad case of codling moth this year which affected the fruit badly (yes the tree did fruit this year). Then there was next to no rain this summer in our area.
It’s possible @clarkinks – I can’t remember if the leaves had any brown spots but the die-back looks a lot like the photos from the UMN black rot page.
Agreed, start shopping. Every tree I had like that was from the roots dying. The top is definitely dead and there is a very small chance only the graft union failed so there still could be some life in the roots. If you cared to salvage then a scratch right at the base will let you know if the roots are still alive.
Same here. “He’s dead, Jim.” I had a Sweet Sixteen on B9 transplanted in 2007 that apparently gave up the ghost this fall — a good run of 15 years in the ground at that spot. I cut down a Golden Noble next to it a couple of years ago. The Liberty on G935 that took its place has not prospered, and the Wolf River on B9 next to that is merely hanging on. In the other direction Honey Crisp™ on B9 and Fireside on M26 (all planted the same year) are still producing. County Extension Agent relayed some snapshots to University of Wisconsin in Madison, and they thought the damage to Wolf River was due to Polar Vortex, but problems in that part of the yard persist. Duuno why. It’s all level sand.
David it’s my opinion when you replace that apple maybe consider something that is not an apple or closely related to go in that hole. Peach, pawpaw, persimmon, jujube etc. Would all do better there than an apple. If you do want to put an apple there i would consider this article which discusses your options and their benefits Apple Rootstocks: Capabilities and Limitations . Did you spray regularly with a fungicide? I’m curious because it helps to diagnose the problem. Unfortunately as your aware the tree is mostly dead as everyone including yourself indicated. Would not be surprised if it shoots up new growth but it is most likely diseased as well. That’s been my experience.
Thanks again @clarkinks – I have read that article (or one similar to it) about rootstocks.
No, no spraying has ever been done in the 6 years. I was going to start next spring as I had thought that at worst I was dealing with just codling moth – the tree had never shown any issues before and I had lovely apples the previous 2 seasons.
Also a thank you to everyone who has taken time to reply.
My rule is when an apple dies i put something different in the hole. Would not hesitate to plant another apple 30 feet away. In this way i rotate my trees so a disease cannot establish itself. When your planting an orchard ideally you might plant a pear then peach then apple then pawpaw then persimmon then pear then jujube and so on. By doing this if fireblight strikes you lose 1 apple but it can’t sweep through your orchard. Organic farmers use the method often.
Maybe on callery rootstock you would be ok with a pear. Callery is tough but it wouldn’t be a dwarf. The apple and pear are both pomes but callery will not die or get sick from what that tree has. The top portion of the pear is closely related and could get sick yes.
Ack! Here I am again with more apple tree issues. This time it is a Topaz tree on M7. Here the bark is falling away around the graft union. I’m seeing black which I fear means some form of fungal disease. Not certain what to do at this point. Has anyone seen this happen before?