If I wanted to duplicate a tree by rooted cutting (whether the tree I’m duplicating is grafted or not), does it vary, by tree, whether I have to wait until the tree is dormant?
I ask, because I was told that I’d have to wait until the tree was dormant to do bud grafting, yet I’ve seen people take cuttings that have had leaves on them, cut the majority of the leaves off, and then root that cutting out.
I did a thread on shrubs. The general consensus was that most woody plants don’t do well with cuttings in water. I have seen Burnt Ridge offers plants that were air layered often times. The other option is grafted for trees. It is noted that the difference between a tree and a bush is a tree has 1 central leader while a bush has multiple pieces coming up. This is mostly talked about on things like hazelnut that can be grown as a tree or a bush however.
Yes! Some trees are almost impossible to root (e.g., persimmons), some things are challenging but possible (apples), while others are easily rooted (Meyer lemon, fig, some mulberries).
Some species or varieties only will root from hard (older) wood, some will only root from fresh green stems. Some need to be dormant, others need to be actively growing. Some can just be stuck in water or soil, others need a misting chamber and heating pad.
There’s no single generally applicable answer to this question.
I’ve rooted many trees and shrubs from green cuttings, either in water or in a humid dome. Some plants root easier green. It depends on what you’re trying to root.
Perfect answer!
I have failed many times with cuttings, but there is a YouTuber who says what has worked very reliably, and simply, for him has been to place cuttings in a shoebox sized plastic container with sand, and spray them every once in a while.
Wow, glad I asked.
Based on my observations, your answer makes sense.
A couple things - one the “experts” are often wrong and/or leave out important information. Bud grafting - in my experience is a summer time late July/August deal. And i have multiple grafts to show for it on both apple and stone fruit trees.
Second grafting is much more successful in humid climates beacuse things don’t dry and die as quickly with limited sap flow diring healing and callusing.
Air layering is a similar process in that callusing is often the first step towards rooting. So the higher humidity will help, or using some form of wrap/container attached to a stem that you can easily add water to to keep the wound moist. Not soaking wet, but moist. I have had multiple successes with green gage plum. I’ve also got a yellow delicious and a nectarine in my greenhouse both on own root from air layering above the grafts. As second year trees they need good nutrition and have to be monitored for sulfur nitrogen magnesium and iron balances since their root systems are still under developed.
Best time is right now in my area - about two to three weeks before last frost but after the trees are really pushung hard, to air layer and wrap. If you’re new to it use something like these.
Reusable Plant Rooting Grow Box… Amazon.com
Or these
IDOXE Tree Root Growing Box,… Amazon.com
Be sure to unwrap or add water thru top every week if in a dry climate.
This guy has a number of great video for PNW growers. Again dont know where you’re at.
Thanks for the info.
I’m in Zone 6-7 High Desert (near a mountain, so we’re supposedly a micro Zone 7–they call my area the “Banana Belt” of Flagstaff, AZ).
So your spot is allost IDENTICAL to where I’m at in San Gabriels. Your probably a bit higher 7000 to my 6000 but other than that then same. Edit:never mind. Identical. Air layering is challenging. I use the rooting balls then wrap with press n seal. Then with aluminum foil to keep moisture in. I get success maybe 1 in 10 times but I’m fine with that. My Queen Elizabeth rose though will root fairly easily with those. Then greengage plum then nectarine and yellow apple. Just dryness is a killer.
What are you trying to root?
They claim we’re all at 7000ft in Flagstaff, but, unless I read the topographical map wrongly (and that’s entirely possible), I’m at about 6000 ft above sea level.
I’ve failed over and over with air layering 
Mulberry, Persimmon, Pear, for starters.
For late winter/end of dormancy. Worked like a charm for Mulberries and Figs. Short 2-3 bud cuttings. Okay for roses.
MET Certified 2 Pack Seedling… Amazon.com
MIXC Seedling Trays Seed Starter… Amazon.com
Hormodin Rooting Compound (1/2… Amazon.com
Viagrow VSSP100 Super, 100… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TAAJPS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
For air layering painted this on too first.
HydroDynamics Clonex Rooting Gel,… Amazon.com
Mulberries are the plants I root the most and there is a lot of variance between varieties. The easiest type for me is the dwarf everbearing one that is falsely labeled as morus nigra. I root them for rootstock and any type of cutting will root for me. I just put them in a perlite and peat moss mix and overhead water them everyday outside. No special care lol. I even tried rooting something tiny to see if it would work and it rooted easily in about a week.
Some varieties are said to not root at all. I tried rooting a King Shahtoot for 5 months and gave up. I took it out of the container and there was a tiny little bit of root that developed. Definitely better off just grafting 
What variety of mulberry are you trying to root?
For mulberry it varies enormously from “nearly impossible” (e.g., pretty much any nigra) to “one of the easiest things in the world to root”. You can check the list linked in this first post to see what your chances are for particular cultivars:
You will not succeed with persimmon, just get a bundle of seedlings from Missouri Dept of Conservation and graft instead.
I don’t know about pears, but I’m pretty sure those are also almost always grafted. Probably a reason for that?
Well, that’s the one I have, so I guess I’ll be doing that, too! I don’t mind eating berries!
Mine says “dwarf everbearing”, but there’s no mention it is grafted (others will say “grafted”, if they’re grafted, on the tag).
Will a cutting of this tree become another “dwarf everbearing”, or…?
That’s the easy one . It will be a clone so go ahead and give it a try. You can even try putting it directly in the dirt 
Thanks.
Mine is still waking up. Do I wait, or do it asap?
I do it all year. Even green cuttings. It shouldn’t matter.
