I am preparing this 16 foot long area so that I might plant six cordon espaliered apple trees. On the left I plan to plant two Winesap on G890 semi dwarf rootstock. It will have four wires with the top wire tentatively at 6.5 feet. On the right side I plan to plant four trees, maybe one Harrison and the others Graniwinkle and Campfield. They will be on G-11 rootstock. The right side will have four wires, the top one being about 60 inches high. There was an old driveway here, and I am presently breaking and digging out the old concrete. I have never done espaliers before and am open to suggestions. https://i.postimg.cc/FKz4spy4/Preparing-espalier-1.jpg
Use varieties that give fruit on short fruitwood.
If the first layer is weak and u start with the second layer u will never get a strong first layer!
The first layer have to be at full length before u start with the second layer.
I like it to first graft a strong growing variety for the first layer. It can also be used for pollinator.
U know how to create symmetric horizontal branches from basebuds?
Do you have any updated info/photos
May be too late, but I am not a big fan of G11. When I painted my tree trunks with straight neem oil, G11 died while everything else was unaffected. I feel like it has also gotten grotesquely out of proportion with other rootstocks in interstems, which looks weird and may cause some problems down the road.
Mike, Roland and HollyGates It is very interesting that the three of you commented on my espalier project today. Last summer I set up the espalier trellis for my apple trees. Everything was ready and I ordered the rootstock and scion wood. But… in the meantime we bought a new to us older home with .6 acres (.24 hectar). The old house was big with a small yard and the new house is small with a large yard. I did 19 grafts and only three failed. I plan on setting up the trellis again for the apples. I am very interested in espaliering, even though I’m getting a late start. It is something that caught my attention as a child. I have been reading Mike and Rolands posts. Roland already changed my plans. I was going to do the apple espalier up against a fence but now will let it be open air. Just an hour ago I finished setting up a pear espalier, trying to rework a 60 year old tree. I posted about it on this thread with some pictures, Espalier Pear (Project) - #4 by marknmt. I am very interested in the suggestions of others for the pear, and later on the apples. The apples, Graniwinkle and Campfield are a little obscure and I read that one of the varieties is a tip bearer (but don’t know if it’s true). Can that be overcome on an espalier? Roland I only know in theory how to 'create symmetric horizontal branches from base buds". No real life experience.
I am in a new home from when I started this thread. Just last week I planted 7 apple trees that I grafted on G-11 root stock last spring. They are a mix of Graniwinkle, Harrison, and Campfield. I planted them 5 feet apart and plan to pleach (graft the cordons) together later on. For next spring scions 2021 I am looking for Rubinette, Ashmeads Kernal, Hooples Antique Gold,Newtown Pippin, Esopus Spitzenburg, Yellow Transparent, and Melrose. In the spring I plan to graft these scions on M111 rootstock and then start another 50 foot espalier/living wall.
I built a picket fence enclosure (deer protection) for these little trees. They are a mix of Harrison, Granniwinkle, Campfield, and one Rubinette. They are five feet apart on G-11. I snipped them to where one inch is above the first wire, and one bud each to the left and right of the first wire. They are just budding now. I just recently grafted the Rubinette. ![image|651x867] (upload://6f6VLzZsHqhitcBJ8ckU6Qk5lU3.jpeg)
I also am installing a second trellis that is 40 feet long. I used Osage Orange hedge posts. They are set three feet deep in concrete. I am using M-111 rootstock, set 7 feet apart. One tree is on G-890. I plan to use a 2-D system where the 1st level is horizontal cordon espaliered, and subsequently attach eight foot high 1x1’s every foot and grow columnar upright mini trees each foot. Potentially I could have 40 varieties some day.
Do you guys know if I should start training my apples now, ie; first season since hacking back to 18"…or wait until dormancy this upcoming winter? I am starting to get some growth from the trees (5" or so) and am debating when to start training and selecting the scaffold branches. Any insight would be great!
Sean I have limited experience. You should start training now, but without knowing what your desired type of espalier is or trellis form it is hard to advise you. Can you post a picture? If you desire horizontal cordons, and if you have the trellis in place: Take bamboo sticks set at 30 degree angles. Grow your new shoots on these temporarily. @Roland in Belgium says in June to lay them down on the permanent trellis. I suspect this has to do with shoot maturity more than the calendar, and would vary with climate.
Correct, u want to grow the shoots long as possible at a 30° angle because there is more vigor. U place it horizontal just before the branch is to difficult to make a nice bend.
This is either a Granniwinkle or Campfield. It’s hard to see but all buds except three were eliminated. The three buds have sprouted and in this picture I just pinched back the center one to establish co-dominance with the ones on the left and right. Soon I hope to attach them to bamboo sticks at the 30 degree angle, but they are still too short.
The little trees are really growing right now. I have them attached at the reccomended 30 degree angles. I’ve been raising and lowering them to try to keep the growth balanced. This is either a Campfield or Granniwinkle. The trees are almost as big as the neighbors car.
I am going to take a second year to develop the first cordon nearest to the ground. The pictures aren’t perhaps the best but I am trying to pleach the end tips of the various horizontal branches. I skimmed off some bark, wrapped them with parafilm, and then bound tightly with electrician’s tape to see if they will graft to each other. My thought is that the various rootstocks will work together as a unified
Here is what the espalier looks like as of a week ago. There were some flowers and some Granniwinkle set fruit. I cut th
I have my first level established on my trellis. I’m going to let it set fruit and grow up to the 2nd wire this year.
This is a Goldrush I grafted on the G-11 rootstock last year. It’s filled with blooms. I might let one apple grow. It has lots of growing yet to fill the first level.
Regarding the pruning of apple and pear espaliers. I see that some are pruning 2-3 times per year. Espaliers work better with a bonsai concept. Prune and pinch intentionally and concertedly any growth that doesn’t belong. Keep shoots to between 4-7 leaves. I’ve pruned and pinched back 4 times already. This will develop your flowering florets. Everytime new growth is pinched back you get a numeric increase of leaves.
This is a picture of a vertical espalier I’m developing. It’s a run of forty feet. Six trees on G-890 and M-118 rootstock. There will be space to graft 40 varieties. With an upright each 12 inches
Fruit trees with multiple purposes