With espaliers, do I just keep on pruning of the end of the scaffold limp everytime it grows back?
And also, it’s wierd only the left scaffolds of both my asian parts are growing, the right side has short 3-4 inch long limbs, but just hasn’t grown any this year. Could I fertilizer just the right side of the tree next year?
If you are doing a tiered cordon espalier I make my cut in spring over three buds (the left shoot, the right one and the new vertical).my asian pears really prefer to grow vertically and if i didnt limit the vertical growth wouldn’t put much into laterals. That means i was able to complete one tier per growing season.
My guess is that with the unbalanced left-right shoots you will need to cut the long one back to match the short one to balance growth. Yes you will need to cut the end of the scaffold limb if it gets too long.
You could also (or alternatively) try notching the longer scaffold to moderate vigor and encourage secondary branching.
By notching, I mean cutting small notches above buds that you want to become secondary branches. This is supposed to limit sap flow to the end of the branch and provide more sap to the bud.
I did notching for the first time this year and found that it worked quite a bit better than just cutting off the end of the branch. Used a utility knife to cut the notches in late winter/early spring, while the tree was still dormant.
If you are trying to get laterals onto the wire shown in your pic, to me the leader is far too tall to expect much to happen down at the level of that wire. In my opinion next dormant season you should cut the leader off down close to the wire. This will push more growth into making the laterals, and you use the growth from another bud to make the new leader.
I agree with the comment about notching - it can help with uneven laterals. Next dormant season, put a notch above the shorter lateral you are trying to encourage. May not be necessary if you chop the leader down like I mentioned above.
Picking up on what Holly said, you might also try letting the shorter/weaker scaffold grow more vertically for a while, to let it catch up a little before you tie it down.
Yes, I’m trying to get the right lateral to grow, the left lateral and the leader both actually only started growing about 2 weeks ago. Seems Korean giants are late growers. The right side laterals are stuck at 1-2 inch long from last year. I may very well cut it back late winter. I guess there’s no point to a long leader if the scaffolds are not growing. I tried notching this year, but might not have cut deep enough.
Wow, it does look kind of dead-ended, doesn’t it?
I would be inclined to go with Holly’s advice about cutting off the leader in that case.
You could try bending down the leader and using that as a scaffold, possibly with some notching, and looking for new growth to form a leader. I’ve done something similar with some of my trees (grown in a Belgian fence), and while it’s a bit inelegant initially, you can balance the growth over time with a bit of coaxing.
I just remembered that Roland posted this technique for pushing growth earlier this summer. He called it in Dutch 'Lengtesnede". You cut the bark off the underside of the branch and the tree.
Went back to some pictures before I painted the trunk, looks like there’s a bud there. I may head the leader back, then prune that short lateral to the bud that’s circled in red (or even further back, there’s maybe 2 more buds), and in addition also notch above that lateral and see what I might get out of it. 
U have a young tree and can start to prune and train it to a nice horizontal espalier.
U select one node or side branch where u want to make the first layer.
Prune one node above the first layer and prune the side branch at 0,5 cm.
Goal of this is to wake up the “Nevenknopjes” base buds. These basebuds are at the exact height.
U can also notch just above the node where u want to wake up the nevenknopjes.
The branches from the Nevenknopjes have to be trained at an angle of 45°. When one is growing more as the other u correct growth by placing the branch 60°. How more flat how less growth.
End of june u place the branches at 15°.
If the branch is not at correct length, the tip have to be bent at 45°. Hence the tip have a good growth.
From the top bud at the stem, there will grow a strong branch. Prune it at 20cm above the first layer. Every time prune it to 20cm till the first layer is at the correct size.
When the 1 layer is flat and at correct size u can start a the second layer by waking op the Nevenknopjes (BaseBuds).
Here is a link with explanation about Basebuds (Nevenknopjes)
The word ‘nevenknopjes’ translates as side buds. Roland thank you for sharing this very helpful information. ‘Base buds’, might be basal buds
