Mamuang asked me if I would post some more info on my espalier trellis, which I’m happy to do.
My system consists of 5 stainless cables, supported between each set of trees and at the ends by a vertical stanchion. This support element is made of a cedar board with notches for the cables, topped with an aluminum bar to keep the cables in the notches. The vertical supports are held off the fence with some cedar support brackets. The cables are braced at the end supports by some sheet metal straps.
Here is a writeup on my blog about the espalier trellis:
Lots more pictures and details there.
My wires are about 30cm in front of the fence panels. So far that has been sufficient but I wouldn’t go much closer. I’ve tied bamboo poles to the wires to help strap down the tender growth as it appears in order to train the trees. Mostly the trees are in front of the wires, but some limbs go behind too. I strap the trees down to bamboo or wires using green velcro plant tie from a roll. You have to go around and loosen ones you have put on previously a couple times a year, though they tend to fall off after a couple seasons anyway.
Last weekend I pruned and sprayed copper/oil. Yesterday I put down compost and then hay in the espalier bed. Here are a couple pics from yesterday showing the trees and trellis parts.
I’m lazier. I just would have used eyescrews into the fence as needed as branches grew- proably tape them to the eyescrews with electric tape because I always keep some in my pocket for training purposes.
I bet at some point you will decide that you don’t need as many scaffolds. I find typical espaliers to have branches excessively close so that the top tier is the only one with truly adequate sun. After a few years it ends up with double the diameter of those below.
But then, I’m no expert on the subject. Almost all the trees I manage are free standing.
I think it is beneficial to have the tree stood off from the fence by some distance, to allow for air circulation and spraying. But can’t say for sure.
I do wish I had done 4 scaffolds instead of 5, with the top wire a little lower. It is annoying to have to get something to stand on to do anything substantial on the top wire like pruning. And on some of the trees that make a lot of growth and foliage, the wires are somewhat too close. On other ones that are more sparse the spacing is ok though.
Because espaliers are kept so open via summer and even spring pruning they are already less vulnerable to fungal diseases than normal free standing trees. The cleanest fruit at any site I’ve managed over the years that had both free standing trees and espaliers was always on the latter.
Whether they could be even cleaner by providing them space from a wall, I don’t know, and I’ve never used a fence, which wouldn’t have the same advantage (and occasionally disadvantage)
as a stone wall for storing warmth.
Thanks for the encouragement. The espaliers i am doing on the fence will be pears and apples, so warmth-wise, I will be fine. I am still deciding whether to attempt the Hardy peach tree in a fan against my south-west wall. The fan pruning seems to take a fair bit of horizontal real estate and I wanted to try some climbing roses too. I am also not sure how much to worry about the late winter sun waking them up prematurely / burning the bark in Montreal. Some say to espalier the peach on such a wall and others say keep in shadow of a builder against winter sun, but full sun in summer. I unfortunately don’t have that perfect spot. The good news is Montreal seems to have evolved from 5b to 6a when I just checked my provincial site. Part of me really wants to try the fan - but I could do it with a plum.
when I just checked my provincial site. Part of me really wants to try the fan - but I could do it with a plum.