Feijoa (pineapple guava)

I believe there are no black walnut species native to the Seattle area, but there are many old (100+ years) Eastern black walnut specimens, especially near early colonial communities. I believe they were one of the things settlers brought along the Oregon trail.

@ramv may know which species his is, I don’t know, but the only species I’ve seen in my neighborhood here is the eastern one based on what I’m seeing online as the distinguishing characteristics. I’m sure all three main species have been planted in the Seattle area, though.

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My black walnut is the east coast species. No idea why someone planted it nearly a hundred years ago. My neighborhood had several a few years ago but most of the others have been cut down.

It seems to have a bad effect on blueberries, tomatoes and lately a Rhododendron seems to be suffering near it.
But most other tree fruits are unaffected in my experience. They are far less “toxic” than cedar or cypress which have a large kill zone.

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I just saw my copy of Trees of Seattle by Arthur Lee Jacobson and decided to see what he had to say about the walnut species in the city. This is from the section for the eastern black walnut (Juglans nigra), which he estimates account for about 90% of the walnut trees in the city:

He does list separately a few specimens of the Texas black walnut (J. microcarpa), the California black walnut (J. hindsii), and the Arizona black walnut (J. major), but he calls each of those “rare” or “extremely rare” in the city.

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I suspect my tree is comparable in size to the largest trees he describes in his book. I’ve been picking and eating walnuts which the squirrels are kindly sharing with me.

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Random question. I just received my Kaiteri and Kakariki today and at the moment, outdoor temps are in the low to mid-40s. I was going to wait a few days until it warms up to the 50s and 60s to plaint in-ground, but has anyone noticed any issues (serious transplant shock/death) when planting feijoa while temps are below 50 degrees?

No, they are nearly bulletproof.

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When well above freezing, the workability of the soil is far more important than the temperature when transplanting.

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I planted NZ feijoas last fall and On 3 of the 4 the graft died and 2, the whole thing.

I assume it was due to Winter and Spring weather, and snow load breaking branches.

I’m going to try again in the spring.

Here is a blog about Feijoa.

I couldn’t find anything on Google but what month is alberts pride and Albert supreme ready for harvest? I bought a few of each and got them mixed up and now I don’t know which is which lol

How’s it going? I was wondering if you’d ever encountered reddish splotches on the leaves of your feijoa. It’s a significant number of leaves spread all over the plant. My first instinct is to say nutrient deficiency. What do you think?

Cold damage will do exactly this.

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Agreed–see my input on the duplicate post here:

What temperatures caused this colour change?

There are many variables. Each plant and location can contribute to different outcomes. The lowest this particular plant has experienced is 16 F, but in an average winter it is typically not lower than 20 and only below 25 a handful of nights. Several people on this thread are convinced this reddish color is cold related. They may indeed be correct, but if so it would be on account of only 26 degrees, the lowest temp recorded at this property last winter.it seems odd that 16 would not cause it to discolor only for it to happen at 26. Of course plants can be idiosyncratic and it’s possible that 26 gave it stress. Since there is no way to know for sure I applied some osmocote plus which has all the micronutrients required for plant health. So if it turns out to be a nutrient issue like the New Zealand site theorized I am covered.

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The spectrum of cold damage to feijoa leaves in my experience:

  1. leaves lose their gloss and fall a few weeks after the cold or the branch is firmly shaken
  2. leaves become dull and a paler shade of green, fall within days or a light shake
  3. leaves become discolored and fall same day or soon thereafter
  4. leaves have brown margins or leaf half furthest from stem turns brown; may stay on plant.
  5. leaves turn entirely brown; may curl; may stay on plant

The temperatures involved range from 25 to 10 degrees F.
My plant has always completely re-leafed to normal appearance by 1 June, even for stage 5, above.

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