Fertilizer for fruit tree and berry list

Is there a one stop web site or PDF showing a simple list of recommended fertilizers for each type of fruit tree and berries. Since I’m new to growing fruit i’m not sure if it’s as easy as adding 10-10-10 or if I have to treat it like rocket science and add 10 different ingredient to each plant. I’ve seen so many different recommendation, I want my plants to grow and fruit but I’m not trying to be a master gardener or spend more money than I can buy fruit from the store. Obviously I would like to keep it simple and cost effective as I can and in the process support a healthy tree.

I added 3" of manure compost in each row or tree spot on Jan 1, 2021 and planted all of my fruit trees and berries around March 2021. Is it okay to start adding fertilizer or is the compost still working, all my trees and berries are looking good as of now? Should I apply fertilizer in a certain month or when I notice the leaves starting to lose there green color?

I have: Blueberry, Blackberry, Raspberry, Muscadines, Peach, Apple, Pomegranate, Pear, Plum, Mulberry, Avocados, Olive, Persimmon, Pawpaw, Figs, Currant, Maypop, kiwi, Citrus, Banana and Loquat.

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Before adding fertilizer, I would have my soil tested to see if it needs fertilizer. Adding fertilizer to the soil when it does not need will result in excess fertilizer going into streams and lakes, causing pollution.
For blueberries, make sure your soil is sufficiently acidic. Soil test results usually include acidity.

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New trees should never be fertilized according to most experts. Fruiting bushes it’s ok to go mild. Compost or organic. Compost should not hurt trees but should only be applied on top not mixed in. In ground your plants have to grow in native soil. The sooner they get used to it the faster they will grow. Fertilizer burns unestablished roots and is a good way to kill your plants. Trees especially, most berry bushes can tolerate it but will be set back.
The first year you should establish plants. Make sure they are not stressed.
I use a fertilizer meant for fruiting plants. Most plants like a NPK ratio of 3-1-2. All good fertilizers that are chemical will have this ratio or close. AM Leonard sells a number of good fertilizers for fruiting plants. You just missed free shipping. The only time I will order

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You do have a lot to learn so don’t be surprised if you have failures. Too much one needs to know it’s a book or two worth of info. Citrus has special needs and so do blueberries. Fruiting trees hate wet feet fruiting shrubs like to be kept moist. I had a flood and had standing water for two days. That killed two of four trees. The two that lived were on higher ground. The fruiting shrubs showed no damage. Getting to know what each plant likes help one keep them alive. I mounded the area where the trees died by planting the next two in two foot raised beds. So solved that problem. Never plant trees too deep. The root flares should be exposed to air. They can live planted deeper but it usually shortens their life. I could go on and on…

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I agree that might be the best however that would be very costly at $10 a soil test when I have so many plants and trees

you can always amend soil but you cant unamend once its in there… i like to plant 1st. see how they do, then fertilize as needed. i like to top drees with composted manure the 2nd year. safer that way and not going to kill your plants/ trees.

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Hi Chipley,
Soil health research:

Agree with others. First year or so just concentrate on soil improvements. If you can improve the soil fertility, then let’s the micro organisms do the rest, you may never need to purchase commercial fertilizers. The CEC of your soil is the key to fertility. The following articles can give you good insight on how to use composted manures and “green manures” or legumes to improve soil health. Just be sure to not use manures that have high sodium content. Avoid feedlot manures as they tend to feed a lot of salt to fatten up livestock. The two best that are very low in sodium are Horse and poultry.
Here are several articles you may find helpful to understand CEC and why using mulch around your trees and sowing green legumes in your orchard will serve you well.
Dennis
Kent, wa

Fundamentals of Soil Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC)

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ay/ay-238.html

Cation exchange capacity

https://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/soils/structure/cec

What it is: Particulate organic matter (POM) fraction referred to in this document comprises all soil organic matter (SOM) particles less than 2 mm and greater than 0.053 mm in size (Cambardella and Elliot, 1992). … It is a source of food/energy for microorganisms and soil animals as well as nutrients for plant growth.

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You can just test 2 areas, the one with blueberries and a mix of everything else. Keep the soil test separate since blueberries require acid PH. You may need sulfur on the blueberry area and lime on the rest.

If the plants look good you can hold off on the fertilizer especially if you do not have drip. In my area, fertilizer is applied in the spring when the plants wake up. Not sure about citrus, olives, banana and loquat. Once the plants get established its common to apply some fertilizer after harvest on brambles and blueberries to insure proper growth for next year. Its helpful to feed blueberries multiple times in small doses. Muscadines require a lot more fertilizer perhaps once a month. See the Isons website for muscadines.

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