- Fertilizing: We recommend not fertilizing until after the first year to encourage the plant to seek out nutrients in the soil and establish a good root foundation.
…advice from One Green World
I never thought of that, what do you think?
Pure BS, IMO. I’d like to see supporting research. What I have read over the years is that bare root apples SOMETIMES do not benefit from N the first season and that varieties that tend to grow vigorously throughout the season like peaches often do, but with early summer app and not spring (in the northeast). Nutrients are absorbed by growing roots which coincide with leaf growth. The idea that N. discourages root growth was dismissed decades ago by the science. It is excess or frequent shallow watering that tends to slow root growth. However, if N is applied too early it may leach away before being absorbed, creating environmental concerns. If quick release N is placed in the planting hole it may dehydrate and kill forming fine roots.
Calcium and phosphorous need to be incorporated into the soil prior to planting if tests suggest they are needed. If you need to make the soil more acidic than it applies to sulfur as well.
Like their plants, not their advice.
I have always recommended avoiding fertilizer for the first year for exactly that reason. The reasoning is more simple than what Alan is throwing out there, though.
You want to encourage the roots to leave the hole. If you enrich the soil too much, add nutrients, etc., the roots are less likely to leave the hole as quickly. This really comes into play in denser soils like those heavy in clay content where it’s already a trick to keep the roots from encircling the planting hole and treating it like a great big flower pot.
Now nutrient-wise, it’s also always a good idea to be judicial with nitrogen applications on a young tree, but there’s nothing wrong with providing it. I definitely recommend to avoid it the first year, then apply outside the perimeter of the planting hole on the second year and beyond.
As for data, I’m sorry, I cannot provide any sources. I can say, though, that in my education at three separate universities, this is what they teach.
1 Like
i dont think the nutrients is really the factor in the roots leaving the hole, more soil texture. for that reason top dressing fert is fine, but i wouldnt add nutrients/compost into the hole
1 Like
I really like digging a hole in the nearby pathway, sticking kitchen scraps in there, and covering it back up with soil and mulch. I figure if the tree wants those nutrients, it can have them, and if it doesn’t, I’m not overfertilizing it.
The big danger is fertilizer in the planting hole. Don’t put any fertilizer in the hole with the tree. The biggest planting disaster I ever saw was a small commercial grower who added manure into the hole with apple trees. It killed or damaged most of the trees. A little fertilizer applied after the tree is growing has worked well for me.
4 Likes
Soil test and follow the Extension recommended application time after planting if any is needed.
1 Like
I would definitely give N fertilizer to young trees. I followed @alan’s recommendation last year and waited a few weeks after planting then applied. It made a big difference compared to the year before when I did not.
I would also note: If you look at what the commercial growers do (I’ve mostly talked to apple people) they all fertigate in the first year. It’s expensive. There’s no way they’d be doing it if it made no difference. Not to say commercial folks don’t do things that are later found to not work - but this is universally accepted as important to making sure the tree grow vigorously.
I’ve also heard not to fertilize apples and pears because of fireblight. However, any new growth can get fireblight - So do I want to keep the tree from growing?!? I just planted a young tree - of course I want it to grow! I’m sure for established trees this might be more sound advice, and I’m not saying to go crazy with the nitrogen, but moderate growth is the goal for a young tree.
+1 for the soil test, but take the advice with a grain of salt. Mine had some reasonable sounding but faulty advice for my alkaline soil and water. Also, you have to incorporate sulfur well in advance of it making a difference.
Good things about the soil test: It was nice to know that I did not have to add P or K and there were enough trace nutrients. Gave some reasonable recommendations for adding N to trees that were already growing.
another good reason not to fertilize at planting is if youre growing marginally hardy trees on the edge of their zone, too much N at planting will push tender growth before the tree has time to harden off properly and can kill the tree or at best get damaged growth.