Each year I see many questions about how to care for a new graft such as below graft foliage removal, when to remove tape, and support for growing scion. There are many more questions other than the ones listed. I’m hoping that this topic will develop into a place to share your methods and a place to learn. I’m pretty sure there are many ways to get good results. The methods I use work for me but by no means do I consider them the best practice. All methods/comments are welcome. Bill
I wait until the scion is about 1-2" long before completely removing the limbs below. I shorten the lower limbs initially to encourage the scion to grow out faster.
Nice work. I find stone fruit tricky to graft. What temperature are the kept at after grafting? Do you start seeds in pots then graft the next year. I find that peaches do not take well to grafts if they have been transplanted.
The two in the picture are at room temperature (about 70F). These are exceptions and all my others are grafted outside and stay there.
The seeds I start are either planted in pots or directly into the soil. They never come inside.
I graft my stone fruit the same way I do apples and I haven’t had any problems with take rate. Cleft, and whip are the grafts I use mostly.
In Bill’s photos and maybe he’s showing us the sprouting of the rootstock in order for demonstration. I periodically (once a week) go thru all grafts and rub off anything growing on the rootstock. I never allow for rootstocks to grow any further than what Bill has shown.
The warmer the temperature at a median of 75F give or take will vastly improve your success rates, indoors or outdoors.
I do exactly what Bill does. Sometimes I use parafilm but I prefer to save time and wax as many scions as possible in one swoop so they’re ready to go when its time. I leave a few inches or what I deem will be necessary for my cuts examining each prior to dipping, and the above remainder of the scion gets a quick dip in warm wax. Or, I parafilm first and leave enough room for cuts and finish off sealing the graft same as Bill with electricians tape. If the scion is bare above the union & above the electricians tape or whatever you use use for that matter (rubber strips/string/non-adhesive garden tape), grab some parafilm and cover it. Then the graft is done.
Add a bird perch on any grafts at the appropriate time, also.
Dax
Bill,
Tell is about your timing. Are you field graphing when the stone fruit is pushing new growth? How Much?
I started peach seedlings in pots then moved them outside and planted them in ground. I let them grow one summer. Last spring I grafted five over to selected varieties.
I do find that providing shade, using foil, paper bag, etc. to the scion increases success rate, even if the scion is already wrapped in parafilm. Maybe this is just for my location because of the scorching sunlight.
I painted mine with watered down elmers glue
Let me answer first by saying that I think that most people start to graft shortly after the stock starts to leaf out and this appears to be a reliable method. Then there is my method. I graft whenever I’m in the mood from January 1 through about a month after new growth starts. I know this breaks with tradition but most all the grafts are successful. If I were new to grafting I think the conventional grafting times would be best.
I thought I was the only one who used painters tape for temporary markers. To my surprise the tape lasted longer than my sharpie marker.
I’ve never tried the diluted glue. I’m assuming it is to seal the scion to prevent moisture loss. Does it easily push off when the scion starts to grow?
I tried out your wax method last year and it worked well. It would be a big time saver.
The picture was added mostly to help jump start the conversations on this topic. If these grow out fast enough I plan to show how I proceed. I anticipate others adding their methods along the way.
I was curious about that when I saw your post. I’m not sure that would work here is zone 6 but, I may test it. I’m always surprised what grafting methods others find successful. I was talking to someone the other day who is doing dormant chip budding.
Yes, in fact if you have much rain it will just wash off, of course if it is wet weather the scion doesn’t dry out anyway.
