Fraying around new grape leaves

Hi all,

I am trying some grapes (now I am officially a masochist) .

I got sticks to root ans the.leaves popped out fine, but, now the edges of the new leaves show some sort of fraying.

You might have to zoom in a little to see it.

Any idea what this might be?


Mike, I’m officially your guardian angel.
Yes of course I know what happens
The young shoots of the vine are extremely sensitive to solar radiation, they are burning.

Look .
In this post I talk about the importance of the protective tube in the initial budding of the grapes.

Tomorrow I will show you more photographs of my grape grafts and we will talk more about the matter.

“It is imperative” that you provide shade for those young shoots.




Once again thank you

Yes, they are in direct sun and the last few days here have been in tn 90s (farenheit) with blazing sun


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A pleasure mike


Are you growing them in pots? If so, you might find long term that won’t work well.

As Masbustelo says, growing the vine in a pot is unfeasible (even using a moderately vigorous rootstock).
For varieties of winemaking (I use them for the distillation of type Italian Grappa liquor), I have 600 vines of different varieties (Albariño, Loureiro, Airen, Macabeo, Cencibel, Graciano …).
And for use as grafting table grapes, high-quality seedless varieties.
This year I have grafted these varieties:

  • Sheegene 20 Allison

  • Autumn King

  • Arra-30 ( Arra Sugar Drops)

  • Sugra-19 ( Scarlotta Seedless )

  • Improved Cotton Candy

  • Sugra-35 ( Autumn Crisp )

  • Sugra-34 ( Adora Seedless )

  • Sweet Celebration

  • Sweet Saphire

The placement of the grow tube is very important, because the initial budding of the vine is extremely sensitive to solar radiation and without protection the shoots burn.

Once the scions are of a larger size, they appear at the top of the grow tube and already perfectly resist the sun without problems.

I graft in pots for confort , but in winter it is necessary to plant them in the orchard area to make their formation in trellis .

The seedless varieties, (they lack seeds and therefore the production of certain hormones such as gibberellins) need to be grafted onto a very vigorous rootstock.
These three are recommended depending on the pH of the land:

  • 110-Ritcher
  • 140-Ruggeri
  • 1103 -Paulsen

As my terrain is very chalky, I use 140-Ruggeri.

Elevated formations can be made (elevated Spanish vine or other elevated formations).

At an amateur level, I recommend formation in trellis, beheaded a 90-centimeter , and with the Guyot double pruning system.
Tremendously easy to perform, tremendously comfortable for all jobs, and tremendously productive.

“Essential”, ultra-long pruning (at least 16-18 buds per fruiting shoot to right and left ).




No, I was just getting them rooted in pots.

I got the wood late and figured that I would have to take them in over winter


Mike, to safeguard the variety, as has been your case, rooting is a solution, but it is not a good practice.
It is much better to graft on a suitable rootstock, to avoid the proliferation of phylloxera.



I am just starting to plant some grapes and I don’t have anything to graft onto


Root Phylloxera is a non issue in New York State. Leaf Phylloxera is harmless.