I have recently been gifted a couple of fruit trees. 3x plum, 2x peach and a pear. I believe these are called ‘‘Feathered Maiden’’ trees. From doing my own research I have learned that these are not ideal for fan/espalier training, and I should rather have gotten whips, alas here we are. My question is; with the trees looking like they are, is it my best bet to plant them as they are in their respective spot, make the trelis system accordingly, and then after coming winter prune them as shown in the image? Any recommendation would be greatly appreciated
There is a member on her named @Roland RdB Tuineran, I believe. He is extremely knowledgeable about various espalier systems. The nice thing is that he lives in the Netherlands also. Send him a note, I think he’ll respond when he notices the message.
Peach is very sensitive to leaf curl in the Netherlands. So you probably have to spray several times with sulfur or bordeauxe pap (copper) every winter (January and February). These are not healthy remedies and very bad for the environment.
Also the plum is difficult to grow as a horizontal espalier.
Pear and Apple are better for horizontal espalier training.
If you still want to try it with these species, plant the trees now and next year you prune them very hard.
They will sprout. Keep 2 side branches and 1 central leader. The central leader keep pruning at 10 cm so the side branches will grow vigorously.
You can stop pruning the central leader when the first layer is full established.
This is the common mistake: don’t start with the second layer before the first layer is fully established. This can take 2 to 3 years. A weak first layer will never get enough energy to stay alive.
“This is the common mistake: don’t start with the second layer before the first layer is fully established. This can take 2 to 3 years. A weak first layer will never get enough energy to stay alive.”
My big hope is for a few pear cordon espalier I will start next spring. I have several OHxF 87 rootstocks ready. I’ll start with an Asian pear espalier.
Here has been my question. If I want to put a new variety at each cordon (going for 3) can I simply grow out the rootstock to form the laterals then graft to that? Or is it better to graft the first variety below the first cordon and grow/train it first, adding the second and third variety graft on the higher trunk for each level as time goes on?
Of course being European you probably grew up thinking everyone dopes espalier trees. I didn’t know until I was over 40 and started traveling in Europe.
Additionally I have one plum espalier just started this year. Belgian fence style. Unfortunately 3 of the 5 whips never budded out so I will replace those trees next spring as I have 3 Julien A rootstocks ready. I don’t know how the plums will do (Japanese) in that shape. If you have any tips pass them on. The two healthy trees have put on a lot of lateral growth. I assume I will prune those back to several inches (sorry for the English measurement system).
Thanks for that Roland. Am I correct in thinking I plant them now, leave them as they are. Then in April prune them all the way back. Go for 1 side branch each and cut the central leader back. Is that to 10cm above the graft? And then keep cutting that back untill the lowest tier is filled out? Is there anyway I can contact you for some questions in Dutch? >)
Sounds good… Though I’m not sure I’ll be able to easily find out which varieties are more or less vigorous. I’ll look around.
I currently have a small shinseiki/hosui/20th century tree. If I go by how those branches are going I can take a guess, but that’s on a single tree only on its 2nd leaf in my yard.
I also grafted raja, Korean giant, and yakumo on another tree but they all seem to have taken well and grown well.
For European pears which I want to try as an espalier as well, I have nothing to go by if not online resources.
Right now I’m thinking of Ayers,
Potomac, and Warren. I’ve been told by a forum member Ayers is pretty aggressive grower, so that might be the first cordon.
Alternates are Seckel, Spalding, and Magness.
Fire blight resistance a must. 500 chill hours or below.
