From Raintree: Gisela 3 is the most dwarfing of the Gisela rootstocks making a tree that grows to only 8 to 10 feet tall. It tends to make a broad tree excellent for a small area. Its small size and early heavy bearing are great attributes but because of this the tree needs good growing conditions to thrive. It is very precocious prompting the tree to bear heavily at an early age. It may require fruit thinning to maintain fruit size and avoid overbearing and having the tree stop growing. Regular irrigation is needed. It is recommended that dormant pruning on all dwarf cherry trees be done in late winter before bloom time which reduces the chance of bacterial canker infestations.
So I am not sure about low productivity, unless we talking about productivity per tree, not per sq or cu foot taken by the tree.
Ok, I found the study you mentioned:
In a rootstock trial set up in 2002, trees of Regina, Karina, Kordia and Merchant sweet cherry were planted at different within-row spacings on Gisela 3 (1.5 m, 2.0 m, 2.5 m) and Gisela 5 (2.0 m, 2.5 m, 3.0 m) rootstocks. Distance between the rows was always 4.75 m. Preliminary results are given after seven cropping years. All cultivars consistently produced a higher yield on Gisela 5 than on Gisela 3. In the first years, there was no clear effect of planting distance on yield per tree. The highest yields per hectare were obtained most frequently with Gisela 5 at a planting distance of 2.5 m. Even the highest density of trees on Gisela 3 (1.5 m) did not exceed those yields per hectare. Tree survival rate in the 8th year on Gisela 5 was 100% with Regina and Merchant, and approx. 90% with Kordia and Karina. Merchant and Regina were also the healthiest cultivars on Gisela 3 with tree survival rates of 92% and 71%, respectively. Survival of Kordia on Gisela 3 was also 71%, while that of Karina was only 53%. Summarizing all experiences under Northern German conditions, Gisela 5 was the best rootstock for the most relevant varieties. Gisela 3 is currently being considered especially for high density systems and plantations under rain cover protection. However, our findings of low tree survival rates on Gisela 3 indicate a high risk for growers.
Unfortunately even 2.5 sq meter per tree is luxury I do not have in my yard, forget about 2.5X4.75. So in this case I have to compare smaller crop of G3 with crop of HIGHLY pruned G5(to fit the spot). I am not sure if G5 will win in this case.
Galina,
I tend to believe a result of a study to a description from a commercial nursery. Please feel free to try G 3. I hope it will do well for your zone.
Aiso, high yield is probably not that important to you. Size seems to be your consideration.
Exactly, this is what I just typed above… When you compare hectare of G5 and G3 - it is one thing… But when it is a spot 4x6 feet - completely different story .
oh, I can shed a little light on that. Its tricky to find info because cherry’s are grown as “Cherry Fans” not Cherry Espalier. and of course searching for Cherry Fans returns lots of pictures of fans.
For a Cherry Fan or Espalier you do not want a true Dwarf you want Semi-Vigorous like Colt. I am of course ignoring that advice and planning my Cherry Fan on Krymsk 5
Yea, I read your posts on the issues with that root stock. But what choice do I have? I wanted to step though the whole process. Gisela is not sold retail and I didn’t want to buy a retail tree and sacrifice it on the alter. Sorta afraid what will happen if I fail to keep a Colt or Mazzad tamed. I grew up with a 2 40ft serotina in the front and 1 in the side. We are still trying to kill the side yard one, it recovered from decapitation. If the krymsk fails on me I still have my 5ish:1 cherry on Gisela I got from Raintree.
I like the idea of 1) branch renewal, 2) tip pruning for spreading blooms from tips 3) heading for maintaining proper height.
All three also can be used to create a manageable size and shape. When tinning branches, i can remove the ones that stick out. When pruning tips, I can prune a bit more to make desired shape. So far sounds good
When I was watching the MSU/OSU videos on cherry trees, they mention G3 needs support, weak roots. But espalier may be fine for it. I never saw a tree for sale on it.
You may want to check the various growing systems to get an idea if and how espalier might work.
I do see trees on G3 at Raintree. Weak roots and support I can live with, all my trees are like this, and most of them planted in former garden beds, so support and good soil should compensate for weak roots?
I would think it would give them a chance to dig in at least. I guess I would be curious why it is around? Who uses G3 and for what? So my comments about G3 are limited. I know little about it?
G5 I have 2 trees on this rootstock and it’s great. The trees grow well, but are more controllable then full size rootstock. IME cherries are such fast and vigorous growers dwarf rootstock is needed to keep small. Other stone fruit pruning is enough.
I would go with Gisela 5 and KGB pruning system. When selecting variety, note that Gisela induces high productivity, and if the variety is also very productive, the tree will over-set, resulting in smaller fruit. Unfortunately, no cherry tree is completely immune/resistant to canker, just avoid pruning in wet conditions and hope you will be lucky.
Taste-wise, Bing and Black Tartarian are among the best, but both require another variety for pollination. Bing is also very firm, BT is not but probably the richest flavor of all. Lapins is pretty good when fully ripe and is self-fruitful.
My neighborr has black Tatarian. It took her 7 years to get fruit.
I know some people grow Bing in the east coast. My friend has a beautiful large Bing tree. She has not gotten any cherries, probably needs to wait until her Stella cherry tree starts flowering. Not everything cross pollinate Bing, either. I have not heard how well Bing fruit in the Northeast. It seems to be cherries for the west coast.
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