I have used many of the Geneva stocks although not the G969. I used to use about 100 G935 every year back in the early years when they were pushing it as the great replacement for M26. Ha, ha, turns out that after years in the field it is smaller than M26 and has compatibility issues with many varieties especially Honeycrisp.
So i still use a couple of the dwarf Geneva stocks for my most vigorous varieties but 80% of my trees are back to good old M26.
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M26 is one of the lamest slow growers in our hot and wet climate.
Was going to try G969; but now the graft union talk has me concerned.
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I think your response is key for people who are looking at rootstock choices. The site specific response of the roostock is hugely variable but obviously important in the choice.
M26 has been the target of rootstock breeders for decades for its various faults but so far I haven’t found a good replacement.
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So far here; P.2, M111 and B10 have done well. B9, B118, M26 and G.214 have not done well. B9 and B118 wilt and stunt in the heat. M26 and G.214 just seem to runt out and often die.
Do like how easy M26 tops root for new rootstock like M111.
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Here’s the thing… I thought that the idea of trees standing on their own would make a beautiful orchard. I understood that almost all apple trees need to be staked or trellised for the first 5-6 and then I hoped I could remove these crutches. Cornell claims these trees are self supporting. I haven’t seen any evidence that they support themselves any better than one of the M-series rootstocks. If these rootstocks transferred even some of their disease resistance to the cultivar/tree then they would truly be amazing but they don’t and they know it so instead they put all their money into marketing. Don’t get me wrong they’ve done a lot of great things but they’re peddling a gimmick. I’m friends with some of the biggest apple growers in the state and they all plant 90% of their trees on Bud9. Some of The juice growers like B118. Some stick with the Malling but all the ones I know don’t use genevas. When I asked them the question if they do they literally laughed out loud and that’s the truth. These people have 1000’s and 1000’s of acres planted in high density. My friends cider orchard planted on M26 looks perfect. The trees are all standing on their own now in their 6th leaf. When I expand, this is what I’ll be doing too.
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I’ve noticed P.2 seems to have much better larger root systems and resists a lot of root issues like rots and collar problems. Just avoid low vigor varieties unless you desire an Apple Shrub.
Hope to trial P.18 and P.22 as a patio tree type next season. And with luck will get P.14 to grow out on nurse roots to grow our own since no one carries it.
I don’t have much experience with anything other than M111s, but I have recently purchased a few trees on Bud 9s. One small heirloom grower did something rather peculiar and so far, I’m seeing advantages. The graft union was about 18-20 inches above the root crown. I had to dig deep hole for this, left 4 inches above ground. It has been 16 months since grafting and the tree is 6’ tall. I’ve ordered a couple from a larger outfit and the graft union was much closer to the crown. Those didn’t do nearly as well. Off topic a bit, but I thought this was worth a mention. Time will tell if this well make for better anchoring.
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Typically it’s the opposite effect. The lower the graft on the rootstock the less dwarfing affect it has. Sometimes individual rootstocks are bigger and healthier and combined with a strong bud or scion and you’ll get a big result regardless of exactly where the graft height is on the rootstock
Personally I think that the Genevas are anything from an unknown to a pig in a poke with the growers being the final phase of the trials. Hmmm kind of reminds me of COVID with the general population having been worked into phase 3 of the vaccine trials.
I am a fan of M26 but I have never looked to rootstocks to impart resistance to diseases like fire blight, CAR, or even re plant problems, just dont seem to have any of those here, thank goodness. I use primarily M26 because of its size control on most varieties I grow. There just isnt anything else that fits that same box.
Many years ago I did have 2 acres of Jonagolds on P22 and EMLA27. These were 4x10. I have since radically changed my views on apple growing but still have 5 acres of rows 10’ apart.
I would give the Emla27 a slight edge on growing performance, fruit production, size.
Both worked very well with Jonagold (King strain) as its pretty vigorous and produces huge crops every year with no off years. Gravenstein and King and Boskoop are others that have adapted well to both these stocks.
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