Where abouts are you located in GA Randy? @scottfsmith any idea where one can locate Hoyt Montrose zion wood?
Mick, Just a few miles north of the I-85 corridor and a few miles west of the South Carolina state line. Actually between Athens and Clemson. Randy/GA
I got my Hoyt Montrose from Bob Purvis, but many people around here including myself might trade for it.
@randy_ga I don’t know anything about Pixiecot. The main thing you need for apricots in the south are resistance to cracking and diseases. By the time they are ripening its already getting really hot and humid. Plus frost resistance depending on your location.
Can you tell me the difference between Montrose and Hoyt Montrose?
I’ve only head second-hand things about HM being larger and tastier. There seem to be no advantages of Montrose over HM that I have heard so I would just get HM.
I grafted a beautiful multi grafted apricot and accidently killed it by over watering and it got root rot. That is the first time that has ever happened to me. The hole was in dense clay and it apparently held water too good. I’ll make another one this winter. At a future date I will start a thread on recommendations for a multi graft apricot. I think H Montrose will be one of them.
Any Update on the Georgia Apricots. Going to try some pluot, aprium, apricot varieties here in North Florida. Put in a Flavor Delight Aprium this year. Tree is probably in its third year now and when transplated was small and tiny and looked pretty delicate. But I will say that its growing very well. I think it is happy to be freed from its pot. I’ve sprayed with the same stuff I’ve put on my other stone fruits (daconil, captan, and F-stop) and have to say it is doing well. No signs of disease, even the june bugs havent bothered it much. I believe I saw one bloom while it was still rooting in. So we will see in a year or two.
Lurking there cause I’m probably going to put in a Katy next year but I’d prefer to put in a royal beinhem.
Godspeed! I’m in upstate SC and apricots are “impossible” here too but I have 4 trees that I grew from seed, all of which flowered profusely for the first time this year. We had the worst possible weather for them: torrential rainfall all winter then very warm March encouraging blooming, then hard frost, then two very warm April weeks, then two hard frosts a week after our “last frost date.” There are no fruits on any of the trees but the frost didn’t seem to hurt many of the flowers.
I have a multi graft apricot: Zard, Afghanistan, Orange-Red, Montros, Moorepark, and Wilson Delicious. It is in its second leaf and doing well. If you are going to do a multigraft I would not recommend Wilson Delicious. It is rapidly out growing the others and will always be a pruning challenge. This tree is replacing a 30 year old Moorepark that died. It did extremely in middle TN. Rarely did I loose a crop. I had it in a great location, NE of my house so it got evening shade in the late winter and early spring thus delaying the bloom.
hi how can i get fresh apricots fruit in georgia for research purposes
What is the latest update on growing apricots (and plumcots or apriums) in Georgia (or elsewhere with low-chill winters, e.g. Zone 8b-9a)? Any success and encouragement?
My idea of low chill is less than 200 chill hours. The Apricots I’ve attempted will grudgingly produce 8-12 fruits per year. I’ve had much more success with Zaiger Apriums and Pluots.
I get about 300-500 chill hours here (SE Texas north of Houston), with about 600 in “cold” winters. I agree 150-200 is generally considered low-chill, but I can’t even begin to consider a 1000-hour+ fruit tree. I planted Spring Satin pluot last year and it rewarded me with a couple of tasty fruits, so was hoping for some encouragement regarding apricots in my area (supposedly USDA Zone 9B per the 2023 revision, but we hit a low 17 F a couple weeks ago, and dropped to 9 F in Feb. 2021).
Millennial Gardener on Youtube has found success preventing early bud break on his fig trees in NC by using shade cloth in the early spring. It seems getting less sun and keeping them cooler prevents them from breaking dormancy early, so they can stay better protected from late frosts. Worth a try if you have some and note an uptick in spring temps on the weather forecast before your predicted last frost date.