I am wondering if grafted crabapple “Whitney” on semi-dwarf M106 can be grown in a 25-gallon pot to manageable size 2.5m high and look like tree and produce fruits; M106-grafted supposed to grow in the field 3.6-5.2 meters high, Apple Rootstocks at Whiffletree
I’ve read somewhere that any plant in a pot will stop increasing in height at some point.
By looking at Bonsai experience (of others) I think even Antonovka can be less than meter high and have fruits?
So that, “rootstock” doesn’t really matter if I grow in a pot size will be under ‘natural’ control without pruning, let’s say fruit trees will be fruiting in 20-gallon pots with 2-meter high and wide (without any hard-pruning)? Asking because the sam tree (such as Antonovka) may grow in the field 5-7 meters high before starting producing fruits
I want to have few apple & crabapple trees in pots at my unused driveway area. Question came because of “dwarf” B9, G41 vs. “semi-dwarf” B118, M106 rootstock difference, I believe it does not matter if I grow in pots?
dMy experience growing fruit trees in containers, is they can outgrow the container. Root pruning can be helpful at controlling them. My challenge with genetic dwarf peaches, and with figs, was that they became top heavy and needed daily and even twice daily watering, My own preference is to use a very dwarfing rootstock. I decided to try again with genetic dwarf peaches but I know I need to have reflective paint or foil to keep the container cool, larger container than I had, and a way to keep the container raised a little so I can fit a dolly under it to move it. I also have a lemon in a container, but that works because it is so non-vigorous.
For an apple, I would use B9 but have not done that in a container. Hopefully someone else will have a better answer.
Thanks for the share; I have also two of “Peach, Natural Dwarf - Empress Shrub Lovell” (grafted on Lovell) - at my front-yard, second season, grows crazily in-the-ground, I think they specifically choose rootstock to make it faster-growing. Flowered this year, and last year, but no fruits. But if grow in pot then bigger pot is better: less frequent watering, etc. I am looking now at Amazon: fabrics pots, 50cm high, 96cm diameter, 100 gallon - good anchorage, and with pot diameter 100cm I can have 2.5m-3m wide tree. I’ve read wider is better than taller. And I’ll setup water dipping system.
Stressing the root systems in pots can keep them shorter and encourage quicker flowering time, like bear was saying watering them becomes very difficult if you live somewhere with alot of sun or heat. Also you lose the protection around the roots and need to bury them for the winter or garage them as usually they lose 2+ zones of hardiness.
Also it matters what zone you are growing in as to choice of rootstocks. I use B9 mostly here in zone 8 as all my trees are containered until my next move. I chose it because there some years we can get a few inches of snow. B9 ge nerally produces in 3 years, at least one shouldn’t let it produce before then or it could runt out. I wouldn’t mess with any rootstock larger than M26 and those get the whisky barrels. I have no desire to root prune my 60 trees. I guess if you are already skilled in bonsai and are willing to invest the extra work and care it may work.
I would suggest you look at the Midwest Fruit Explorers site. Gene’s backyard orchard has many trees on M27 and P22 which Gene keeps at about 4 feet tall. His backyard orchard looks like a apple bonsai collection. He also gives a bunch of good advice about growing small apple trees. Much of what he says would translate well to container growing.
Note: There are more pages but don’t use the links at the top of each page because they no longer work. Instead click on the links at the bottom of each page to navigate thru the pages.
Zone 6b (Canada), and trees I am buying marketed as Zone 3-4 to Zone 7-8
Yes, I know “potted Zone” is at least two levels higher; some Zone-5 roses survive well in “designer” pots.
However, I am considering fabrics pots, such as 40cmx55cm (25 Gallon) for dwarf rootstocks M9, or bigger 50cmx75cm (50 Gallon) or even bigger 50cm x 96cm (100 Gallon) and 96cm pot diameter may hold tree with crown spread to 3 meters (or 3 times of pot diameter) for sure. I’ve read about this 1:3 formula at https://www.orangepippintrees.co.uk/articles/growing-fruit-trees-in-pots-and-containers
So, according to 1:3 formula, 100-gallon pot is Ok for M106 / Bud 118 rootstocks (semi-dwarf) if one expects 3mx4m tree. But I am wondering: will it be fruiting healthy looking tree but smaller 2m x 2m size, if planted in let’s say 30-gallon pot?
Anyway I am going to experiment, I can replant it later; 25-gallon are more than enough for small crabapple trees which I plan to buy; dwarfs on M26, Bud-9, G41, and semi-dwarfs on M-106, Bud-118. (Just a toy for me right now really, it will take few years for trees to overgrow and who knows I may give it as a gift to friends and move to another house)
And I like fabrics pots: they can soak in rain water from driveway, they can be put close to each other for Winter and I can put designer pots with warmer Zone-6 plants in-between and cover with mulch and snow, etc.; some plants may be ok in shade and I don’t know yet which - with pots I have more freedom.
P.S. If I can choose, of course I will plant in the ground in full-sun area; but I live in urban area, I plan to dismount garage and remove driveway for instance - no-one uses garages “for cars” these days
idea is you grow “vertical sticks” and cut out branches, columnar form, dwarf rootstock could become 2.5m-3m tree in 20-gallon pot with many fruit on it