I have a few varieties of Che scions that I’m planning to graft into Osage orange. I’m located in central Kansas, Zone 6A. I’m wondering about the best time and grafting techniques. I have to experience grafting Che or anything onto Osage orange. Does anyone have any experience they would be willing to share here?
1 Like
Hello newbuzzfarm, I have done wedge and bark grafts and they seem to take easily. If you are doing wedge you could probably do it after danger of frost. You could also do a bark graft but will have to wait till active growth is starting on the rootstock so that you can easily separate the bark.
2 Likes
I ‘field graft’ everything. Almost everything gets a bark graft, performed after the rootstock is actively growing, and bark ‘slipping’.
Che on OO may be subject to excessive bleeding and ‘flooding out’ of your graft, as some folks seem to encounter with mulberry grafts. If this is a concern, consider ‘beheading’ the rootstock and waiting until it stops ‘bleeding’, then graft.
Or, at least make a few semi-girdling slashes in the bark, below the graft to allow bleeding as a ‘pressure relief’ valve, of sorts.
At some times of year - I’ve had pecan or walnut understock bleed for several days before they stop.
4 Likes
Yes the OO definitely bleeds - challenging.
1 Like
So it looks like you completely cut the Osage rootstock back in back. Most of the OO on my property are well established. Have you tried topworking larger trees? Also, did you have any problems with bleeding like Lucky suggested?
The first pic is of a wedge graft using the same diameter scion. They were probably 1/8-1/4 inch when I grafted them. I have not done anything on much larger stock. I don’t recall much about the sap. I may have grafted a little earlier in the season before it bled a lot of sap.
1 Like