Oh, forgot to mention, I used parafilm cover the top of the scion and wrap around the bud hoping that will prevent them from drying out. Don’t know if it’s neccessary, but that’s what I did.
Hope this will work for you. I have tried all kind of graft I saw on youtube, never really worked for me. It looked so easy for them!
Thanks Clark! What kind of graft did you do? Cleft?, t budding?..
I used cleft and whips this year on green wood and every graft took. T-bud does not work good that way because you need to slip the bud under the slipping bark of the pear but green wood has no bark. You might be able to modify the idea and use green non dormant wood and green non dormant wood whip grafts but I have not tried it. It would likely be much like tomato grafting https://extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/HO/HO-260-W.pdf
Thank you! I think I will give it a try. This should work for peach and plum too right?
I will be going out on a limb if I said yes since I have not tried it but I would not see why not.
@fruitnut tbud tutorial was excellent T-budding tutorial but there is a slightly different method you might be interested in thats used for nut trees https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CaXkms7rB8 but it would work very well for fruit trees. With difficult grafts such as walnuts, pecan etc. there are many ways to hedge your bets https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcU5RTC4ZPM. Grapes are no different if traditional methods don’t work other methods will. You might also be interested in approach grafting Approach Grafting and Inarching. Here is a little more on vegetable grafting http://hos.ufl.edu/sites/default/files/faculty/gdliu/VegetableGraftingUF2-25-2015Compressed.pdf
Thanks for all the info! A lot to digest.
I like fruitnut t budding tutorial too. I learned so much from this forum and the old gardenweb!
I did this around the start of July and have had about half of them take. That’s much better than past efforts which are well under 5%.
Today I did a few more of the green-on-green cleft grafts. One thing I’m noticing is that it is hard to graft over some of my vines, as they get tangled growth and I have trouble removing the host and not the scion growth. When pruning today, I accidentally removed several feet of growth from one of the 3 success I had last year.
So, I decided to take a more agressive approach to removing the host vine’s growth. Here’s a Neptune which I decided to graft over.
All the grapes rotted last year (black rot, I think) and most of them did this year as well. This is in spite of fungicide treatments which seem to have worked for most of the other grapes. These two clusters are 70% of what is left on the vine. I decided that they weren’t worth bringing to maturity…
Neptune to start with:
A drastic Cut:
I’m not sure if a summer bark graft will work. I haven’t tried them before, but it’s worth a shot. The tape is vinyl and I put it sticky side out, as I wasn’t able to find my roll of rubber Temflex.
I’m not all that confident in the bark graft taking, so I added a green-on-green cleft graft (the thing I’ve started having success with) on the side-shoot just under the bark graft.
Bob, this time you will have real time side by side comparison to see which one works better on your latest graft. Let us know the result.
For this year’s green and green cleft graft, I just used strips cut from plastic shopping bag and wraped around the graft really tight and covered it really well. some of the grafting area were also covered by parafilm, some were not, either way works.
I did cover the top and the bud of all my scion with parafilm just like you did.
I think I got over 50% success rate, so far.
Nothing yet from either graft, but based on past time-frames, I bet I’ll see something in the next week or so (if ever).
I did get some successes from my 2nd round of summer grape grafting (mid July). Here are 4 grafts, all of which took (yay- though I there were a few failures on another vine). Only one used anything beyond parafilm (a small piece of black tape, which I found stuck to a bucket…yes, I still haven’t found my roll), but I did notice one graft on a different vine which came apart. Maybe something sat on it, or maybe I was just being cheap and didn’t use enough parafilm. The one on the bottom right of the pic looks a bit loose as well- I should add a bit to strengthen it up.
This is a bird-planted vine which I’m grafting over. It seems to have a susceptibility that my other vines don’t. Are these blister mites? They have a spot on the top and a projection on the bottom of the leaves. I’m not sure if I should prune out the damaged leaves, or just ignore them.
Bob. The graft takes on your grapes are impressive. I haven’t had any success with grafting muscadines as of now. The green method sure looks like it will improve my odds.
That was quick…One day later and it looks like all 4 are breaking bud. It may have helped things along when I pruned off the bottom of the vine (2-3 days ago). It had a long cordon which was hanging down off the wall, then snaking it’s way through the figs. Once the grape lost the lower growth, maybe it figured that it needed the grafts.
Obviously, they could still die, but it is more encouraging than them just sitting there, doing nothing 
This is really nice! Both methods work so far. All 4 of them are breaking bud. Impressive!,
Five days later and all of them still appear to be growing. When they’ve failed in the past, they often stall out at the stage (or slightly earlier) from the 8/11 pic. I’m taking this continued growth as a very good sign.
Boy do these things grow fast. I suppose that is what you get when there is a full sized root system pushing growth through 4 buds.
Updated pic:
It seems like pushing this bud to break now also made the vine flower. I know it is too late in the season to ripen, but I thought it was interesting.
Nice
If that bud hadn’t been forced to grow this yr that would have been next yrs fruit. Pruning at the right time can force the same thing, a second late crop. The bunches and berries are smaller than they would be after the flower bud has a dormant period. The berries can get sweet if they ripen soon enough. The flower buds don’t need any chilling to flower. But come to think of it late pruning can cause the same thing on stone fruit.
Bob those bumps on your leaves are phylloxera. I have had it a few times, it does not survive cold weather so should eventually fade.
Congrats on your graft!
I am getting some Gratitude and Hope grapes ripening now, both are solid grapes very similar to Thompson Seedless.
Thanks Scott! I did a bit of reading about it, and it seems like the common answer is to do nothing, though one source mentioned that if you see the galls before fruitset (early in the season), that it could make sense to spray for it (not the case here).
Another thing of note is that the main defense is a resistant rootstock. In this case, the birds planted the vine, so it is very possible that it is NOT a resistant rootstock. This could explain why I’m not seeing the issue on my other vines. I’ll keep an eye on it next year to see if it is an annual issue on this single vine.
I’m starting to get some UoA grapes as well.
Hope- nice, though small green grape with a decent crispness. 13-14 brix and I’m not sure that they are all the way ripe (a few sour ones).
Faith- I’m having trouble with un-even ripening and YJ/Wasps. Nice flavor on the few which I get and similar brix to Hope (~13)
Bob, my Hope are not fully ripe yet so I am sure yours are not either. Look for a light yellow color, no green.
Note my remark about phylloxera not surviving the cold above is incorrect, I was mixing it up with pierce’s disease. But the gist was correct, it should not be anything to worry about unless it gets into the roots. It shows up now and then for me and then goes away for several years.
