I’m thinking about trying this graft on Muscadines so I just want to confirm the wood type. The scion was 2017 grown green wood and it was grafted onto new 2017 grown green wood. Was leaves removed from the scion? Thanks Bill
I have had only three kinds of grafts reliably work on grapes: bench grafting and callous indoors at 85F; green on green, and dormant scion on green wood. I’m not sure how the pros manage to field graft over commercial orchards using dormant-dormant, but they somehow get it to work.
I used cleft and whips this year on green wood and every graft took. T-bud does not work good that way because you need to slip the bud under the slipping bark of the pear but green wood has no bark. You might be able to modify the idea and use green non dormant wood and green non dormant wood whip grafts but I have not tried it. It would likely be much like tomato grafting https://extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/HO/HO-260-W.pdf
I did this around the start of July and have had about half of them take. That’s much better than past efforts which are well under 5%.
Today I did a few more of the green-on-green cleft grafts. One thing I’m noticing is that it is hard to graft over some of my vines, as they get tangled growth and I have trouble removing the host and not the scion growth. When pruning today, I accidentally removed several feet of growth from one of the 3 success I had last year.
So, I decided to take a more agressive approach to removing the host vine’s growth. Here’s a Neptune which I decided to graft over.
All the grapes rotted last year (black rot, I think) and most of them did this year as well. This is in spite of fungicide treatments which seem to have worked for most of the other grapes. These two clusters are 70% of what is left on the vine. I decided that they weren’t worth bringing to maturity…
Bob, this time you will have real time side by side comparison to see which one works better on your latest graft. Let us know the result.
For this year’s green and green cleft graft, I just used strips cut from plastic shopping bag and wraped around the graft really tight and covered it really well. some of the grafting area were also covered by parafilm, some were not, either way works.
I did cover the top and the bud of all my scion with parafilm just like you did.
Nothing yet from either graft, but based on past time-frames, I bet I’ll see something in the next week or so (if ever).
I did get some successes from my 2nd round of summer grape grafting (mid July). Here are 4 grafts, all of which took (yay- though I there were a few failures on another vine). Only one used anything beyond parafilm (a small piece of black tape, which I found stuck to a bucket…yes, I still haven’t found my roll), but I did notice one graft on a different vine which came apart. Maybe something sat on it, or maybe I was just being cheap and didn’t use enough parafilm. The one on the bottom right of the pic looks a bit loose as well- I should add a bit to strengthen it up.
This is a bird-planted vine which I’m grafting over. It seems to have a susceptibility that my other vines don’t. Are these blister mites? They have a spot on the top and a projection on the bottom of the leaves. I’m not sure if I should prune out the damaged leaves, or just ignore them.
That was quick…One day later and it looks like all 4 are breaking bud. It may have helped things along when I pruned off the bottom of the vine (2-3 days ago). It had a long cordon which was hanging down off the wall, then snaking it’s way through the figs. Once the grape lost the lower growth, maybe it figured that it needed the grafts.