I’ve not taken (nor even thought about doing so) any grafting tape yet from anything.
But, perhaps, I should check one vigorous callery multi-graft to see if any of them are being squeezed by grafting tape or not. If no girdling is apparent, I’d rather leave the tape until later in the summer or even into cool of fall.
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Tennosui on a 1 inch caliper Callery, grafted 5 weeks ago, is waking up and looks like it will take off soon.
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Thanks. Looks like 2 of the 3 pear grafts on Callery is taking.
The one that hasn’t taken was also grafted 5 weeks ago. It isn’t leafing out, but the scion still looks hydrated so it seems to be getting at least water from the rootstock. Will take a picture later.
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Have had them take 2 months once with some Duchess D’ Angoulme. Was sure they all failed but then they all sprouted out. Something about that pear on callery took a long time to bud out. When they did grow those trees became very heavy producers.
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Below is the graft that hasn’t sprouted. It’s another Tennosui scion, but on a huge caliper (3inch at ground) Callery. The caliper at grafting point 2+inches, which made it difficult to get a good split and wedge with just a grafting knife. I should have used a kitchen knife, hammer, and flathead screwdriver like you. There’s only one scion here because the fit was so tight, I couldn’t even jam the other scion in properly.
I do see callousing, so the scion and rootstock do appear to be physically bonded now. It seem the scion buds took some damage while the bonding was not so good. At bottom of the scion, I also see little bumps that appear to be root primordia. Maybe given some more time, the lower bud may wake up or another bud may form.
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Spray it down with water and water the tree. If its a somewhat shaded location that wont cook your graft put a plastic bag over it to keep it humid. Watering the tree a lot will help. It took it is starting real slow. I would parafilm or tape the trunk and put something over the cuts. You could rewrap the entire scion besides the bud if you want since it helps. You could take the wrap off the trunk next year if you want, there is no hurry. A regular graft gets girdled but trunks dont
This scion that hasn’t grown out is under shade and it’s been very rainy lately. I took off the plastic wrapping because i saw it was trapping a lot of water droplets, which I didn’t think was too good for tree.
What do you suggest to put over the cut on the rootstock? Toilet ring wax?
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No the wax will melt into the tree when its hot. Try caulking or plasticina modeling clay. Put some parafilm under it. Then the caulking or modeling clay is on top not in the crack. Whatever you have around even tape over the crack. Water can get in there and cause rot. Hopefully that bud will take off. Dont rewrap the bud but the rest of the scion might dry out if its not wrapped.
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Hmmm…lightbulb went off in my head.
How about if I drop candlewax over the crack? I think candlewax could take the heat from the sun and will create a nice waterproof seal.
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You can burn thru some tape this way… but it works well.
I have parafilm under my black rubber tape.
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Thanks for the pictures. Seems temperature above 105F may not be good for Eucalyptus cambium cells according to study below. Are you concerned that black tape could cause the underneath to get too hot in direct sun once summer is in swing? I’m guessing the tape could add 10F degrees. It would be interesting to check with an infrared thermometer.
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Never had any failures from black grafting sealer except if it melts in before the graft takes. This is how i used to do it
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I have a jar of treekote… and have used it several times successfully… it is black. It always seem to find a way to get all over my fingers… then i have to use my wifes fingernail polish remover to get it off.
I am hoping those persimmons grow and put out leaves and shade that black tape… before it gets too hot here.
My mulberry did last year. It is usually mid to late june here before it gets tooooo hot.
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I see, so the canopy from the scion will shade the black tape or sealer by the time it gets too hot. Makes sense.
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BET can be covered in branches so when i remove those it leaves the rootstock covered in bumps that i need to graft around. Normally i would remove those thorny branches when the trees were young. In this case the thorns were left to teach the animals like deer and rabbits lessons then i graft them over. It is far from a perfect strategy but it works. This row will be warren pears.
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@sockworth … below are my first pear grafts.
I transplanted the callery into my field in January… and grafted to them Feb 23.
Today is May 5… so this is around 70 days after grafting.
On the one with modified cleft graft… i have already removed the black rubber tape. It has healed nicely and is growing well.
The one with bark graft progressed a little slower but is kicking in now. It has the black treekote on it and black rubber tape.
I may leave that on another month or two… but looks like it will have plenty of canopy to shade the black.
.
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