No the wax will melt into the tree when its hot. Try caulking or plasticina modeling clay. Put some parafilm under it. Then the caulking or modeling clay is on top not in the crack. Whatever you have around even tape over the crack. Water can get in there and cause rot. Hopefully that bud will take off. Dont rewrap the bud but the rest of the scion might dry out if its not wrapped.
Hmmm…lightbulb went off in my head.
How about if I drop candlewax over the crack? I think candlewax could take the heat from the sun and will create a nice waterproof seal.
Add tape or plastic first i would say underneath
You can burn thru some tape this way… but it works well.
I have parafilm under my black rubber tape.
Thanks for the pictures. Seems temperature above 105F may not be good for Eucalyptus cambium cells according to study below. Are you concerned that black tape could cause the underneath to get too hot in direct sun once summer is in swing? I’m guessing the tape could add 10F degrees. It would be interesting to check with an infrared thermometer.
“Longer exposure to sublethal temperatures (40 °C–50 °C) caused irreversible thermal damage to cambium cells of Eucalyptus when tested in vitro, further refining our understanding of raised temperature on cell viability.”
Never had any failures from black grafting sealer except if it melts in before the graft takes. This is how i used to do it
I have a jar of treekote… and have used it several times successfully… it is black. It always seem to find a way to get all over my fingers… then i have to use my wifes fingernail polish remover to get it off.
I am hoping those persimmons grow and put out leaves and shade that black tape… before it gets too hot here.
My mulberry did last year. It is usually mid to late june here before it gets tooooo hot.
I see, so the canopy from the scion will shade the black tape or sealer by the time it gets too hot. Makes sense.
BET can be covered in branches so when i remove those it leaves the rootstock covered in bumps that i need to graft around. Normally i would remove those thorny branches when the trees were young. In this case the thorns were left to teach the animals like deer and rabbits lessons then i graft them over. It is far from a perfect strategy but it works. This row will be warren pears.
@sockworth … below are my first pear grafts.
I transplanted the callery into my field in January… and grafted to them Feb 23.
Today is May 5… so this is around 70 days after grafting.
On the one with modified cleft graft… i have already removed the black rubber tape. It has healed nicely and is growing well.
The one with bark graft progressed a little slower but is kicking in now. It has the black treekote on it and black rubber tape.
I may leave that on another month or two… but looks like it will have plenty of canopy to shade the black.
Nice work they look great. Can’t wait for you to pick pears off those!
Yes @clarkinks … cant wait.
Harrow pears will bear in 1-3 years for you i would put out some of those as well. Then you have pears to eat while you wait. Those two pears you planted will produce an excessive amount of pears! They are 2 of my favorites because they are a dependable crop. The blooms are very resistant against early freezes. Improved Kieffer pear - #34 by clarkinks. They frequently get frost rings on the pears from the cold weather.
@clarkinks … lovely…
I was sort of planning to graft onto these two kieffer trees once they get some size to them.
Possibly harrow sweet and korean giant… per orange pippin those pollinate.
Also may add some orient… which pollinates with kieffer.
I need to stick with FB resistent varieties for sure.
Harrow sweet is disease resistant and early to produce. In my experience it does not overlap KG in Kansas. Blakes Pride blooms very late like harrow sweet. @mamuang what is your experience where you live ? Kansas has very odd seasons they dont align to many locations.
I get some consistent overlap between KG and Harrow Sweet in Pennsylvania. I only have 3 pear trees in my yard and you named 2 of them. I have never had any pollination issues.
@ZombieFruit … orange pippin says they are both (KG and HS) In flowering group 3.
But i an not sure if they are in the USA.
I will try to find a Tennessee or bordering State nursery with a pear pollination chart and see what they say before i decide on KG.
I am not dead set on KG… but lots of folks hear seem to like them and have heard they resist FB too.
That is the main thing i need… FB resistence… and would be nice if it ripened earlier or later than kieffer… or was significantly different than kieffer… taste, texture, etc… just to have something different.
Here in central MA, KG and Harrow Sweet bloom time overlaps about a week. KG is one of the earlier bloomers, HS is middle bloomer.
A few varieties are late bloomers. But the middle bloomers usually overlaps with the late ones.
The trouble may occur if I had only a very early and the very late varieties…
Asian pears and hybrids are early bloomers here. Blakes pride, orcas, my small yellow pear some of the last. Harrow sweet is still blooming here. It has a crop of pears on it. Some years it overlaps KG if its late and HS is early. My small yellow pear is still blooming. Clark's Small Yellow Pear - #139 by clarkinks