Nice short vdo demonstrating a variation of bark grafting that was new to me. They call it a strap graft. Pretty easy to follow even without translation, but it’d be useful to know what they’re saying, if anybody knows what language they’re using and can translate!
Here’s a sample:
Thanks!
I can’t read it, but would assume it’s some form of HINDI or similar language…India / Pakistan / Bangladesh portion of the world. (Video won’t play for me either.)
To me it looks like a bark graft with an extra effort for more cambium contact which I don’t believe is necessary.
Yah, same here; I was wondering what the rationale was, and that’s why I was hoping to find a translator.
It is a bark graft with an extra bark strip for more cambium exposure.
I don’t make such big cuts to graft much anymore , because the cut Stubbs don’t heal well.
I could envision , that strap across the top healing up the cut.
Thing is though, Tony, I don’t see what that strip can knit to except at the very end where it’s tucked into the bark on the far side from the graft. Maybe it helps supply nutrients and fluid to the scion. I don’t know.
Mark,
Instead of doing that extra strip of bark. I would rather bark graft another scion on the other side for guarantee and culled the weaker of the two in a few months.
Tony
@Hillbillyhort he real point is to heal over the exposed wood faster, and it really does! They heal so fast, if the strap survives!
@marknmt you asked this too.
@tonyOmahaz5 you can put the two grafts not directly across but 120 degrees and then you’ll have many benefits, double straps or not.
I usually grafted two and prune the variety I don’t want or the weaker one to be a low growing branch, even if it’s a less preferred variety.
And here’s an example of just that, and just a couple months in, it’s almost healed over.
Also I needed my purchased Clara Frijs graft to make it but my free Asian pear graft I cut down as far as possible to make it into a low south facing branch.
This is a pretty normal cleft graft, but the large side is angled for the straps to not bend and break, it worked great!
These are not tucked in, just Parafilmed down to contact the cut end, and trimmed to not overlap after the Scion was in place.
I’ve never had a successful graft in my entire life 
I don’t know how ya’ll do it.
Melon, start with a pear tree and do a simple cleft or whip graft. Make sure that your scion is from last year’s new growth, that the cambium lines up in at least a couple of places, that you snug the pieces down tightly, and that you wrap the graft thoroughly.
As I was told by a great mechanic when I was struggling with a clutch replacement, “Keep at it. You’ll get it.” (The clutch was in my old Subaru, of course! 
.)
I’ll try again once i get everything moved and under cover. My new place has a 20x15 convered patio in the back. 
Trust me, if I can do it anybody can!
@Melon … my first graft was a bark graft and was a huge success.
Gerardi mulberry bark graft to a 3 inch white mulberry stump.
I prefer and have more success with whip/toung grafts where the rootstock and scion are same diameter…
But Bark Grafts have their place… especially if grafting normal size scion to much larger rootstocks.
TNHunter
Too bad you live so far from me. I would hire you to help me graft
Can confirm this works well. Main benefit is faster covering of exposed xylem but also multiple attachments of cambium from rootstock
I saw other tutorials of something similar and did it on prunus.
That’s Hindi, was able to use a translator app on my phone to get some of what they were talking about.
I’m on android so either Microsoft or Google translator should work. Assume there’s an iPhone app
Love that photo of your cleft graft. I have been doing it the opposite way, making the big cut in the larger proximal branch, which I have never like, as it seems like you are creating a big pocket in the branch where moisture and disease can collect. I am going to try like in your photo this year. Thanks.
Interesting. I wonder if a flap of the rootstock cambium, left dangling as a strip from the cut off top would also be helpful. If it were pulled acros/over the top of the scion flap strips. Then tucked into a side slit back into itself as well. For these larger diameter root stocks to heal over cleaner and faster.
