I have several wild dv in my field that are the size shown above. Those were bush hogged last (mid July) and grew 3-4 ft tall by October… most are 5/16 or so in diameter.
I plan to graft to them this spring.
Hopefully i get some scionwood to match that ?
I have some larger rootstock as well… some i will bark graft to.
I think my smaller wild dv rootstock… has a more advanced rootsystem in place already… they have been trying to grow in my field for years perhaps… and have been getting bush hogged down 2x a year.
I am hoping the smaller ones work ok for me this spring. Good or bad… i will ket you know.
I have grafted Persimmon many ways , one should pick the method best suited to their situation and desires. I often use the hot pipe at 81F in winter or pot them and graft when they start growing. One thing about grafting , if it fails you can try again in 3-4 weeks or try again next year. At 2 weeks it should show growth and at 3 good growth and 4 very good growth several inches , ones that grow weakly and stay small will probably fail so try again. Maintaining trees in pots is a skill in itself so planting things out is much easier but grafting them the first year is less likely to succeed Hot pipe makes it easy and one can graft them again in the spring if they fail . Choose a system that is best for you .I give away a lot of trees so putting them in pots and grafting when they come out works best for me. I usually have 50-200 in pots
It is not easy to grow potted persimmon in my area. We have hard water, high pH and the trees suffer micronutrient problems. I acidify the water and aim for a potting soil pH of 5- with 6 maximum. Also low phosphorus helps. I use peat based soil because it is what is available locally but bark based might be better and help keep pH lower. If one adds ordinary field mineral soil the situation is completely different but then lack of oxygen can become a problem if kept too wet and pH near 7 can be ok. Seedlings in pots do much better than field planted but one must harden them off by leaching and withholding fertilizer starting August 5 here or they may freeze off in winter. It can take a few seasons to develop a system for your water and other conditions in order to develop a system that is successful. If you have been successful , stick with a proven system.
Just put my MDC persimmon seedlings in some soil. Hopefully they break dormancy soon and I see what quality they are. Probably not going to graft into any of them as they are very thin
@TNHunter – Seeing buds pop so early for you guys in warmer regions makes me jealous. The only way I can cope is to bring some potted seedlings indoors and graft them there. So this year I brought 7 dormant potted seedlings indoors in mid-Feb. They leafed out a few weeks later. I grafted 5. I’m waiting on scions for the other 2.
Top pic shows the two growing seedlings awaiting grafting, along with grafted trees and some fig cuttings.
Bottom pic shows a close-up of one grafted scion, which seems ready to leaf out. Fingers crossed.
