My concerns are about what technique to use, cambium alignment, covering to prevent drying while the graft heals, and proper temperature for callusing. Usually the later is OK if the rootstock is growing. I’m not very good with the bark type grafts but have had good success with cleft, W&T, and simple splice grafts.
I just got some parafilm M and it doesn’t seem much different than what I already had. I’m going to try it for rooting fig cuttings this spring along with grafting nectarine and peach.
I don’t like the split open limb that cleft grafting leaves behind but think it’s really not much of an issue. The tree handles it pretty well and it’s a strong graft.
The tree doesn’t need to be actively growing, it only needs to have the sap flowing, and that will be indicated by bud swell. Use the same techniques you used on your apples.
Fruitnut, it’s funny, but I find bark grafting to be the easiest method for me.
Figs are the easiest things to root. Take your cutting and stick it in a one gallon pot filled with good potting soil. Water it thoroughly and place it in the shade and don’t let it dry out. When the leaves begin to appear, move it to full sun and keep it watered. You don’t need parafilm or anything else for that matter. I’ve never had a fig cutting not take.
I haven’t had Rayrose’s success with grafting stonefruit early, just as they begin growing. My success rate went way up when I waited until plums were in full leaf before grafting, and this involves scores of grafts (probably a couple hundred). However, this is with splice grafts, which is not the most common approach with stone fruit. Maybe results would be different if I was grafting onto larger wood.
Are you rooting your figs inside your greenhouse or outside?
Dave Wilson has an excellent video on bark grafting (top grafting)
3 varieties of nectarine onto an older nectarine that describes
exactly what I do and when to do it. I’ll post it, once I figure out how to post it.