Hawaii was slow for me as well.
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I converted my Harrison apples on Bud 118 to Bud 118/bud9 interstem. Due to a mailing mishap, my Bud9 sticks didn’t show up until after the apples leafed out, so I had to use the portion of the twigs that were still dormant. It took a while for them to get going, but one definitely took. The other one I unwrapped to look at, and it turns out I managed to squeeze the whip and tongue apart when I wrapped it. 
Fortunately, the interstem seems to have taken, as well as the other Harrison. My plan was to only keep one tree as Harrison anyway, so I guess I’ll let it grow as is for now and find another variety for next spring.
Jay:
The bud9 sticks you mention, are they scions?
If so, then you grafted that part of the scion that still had buds but not leafed?
I’m grafting both the top part of scion with small leave starting, then separately the dormant part.
A work in progress.
Maybe the small leafs of small leaf scion if wrapped with parafilm will survive and continue to grow
Thanks @JCW and @jcguarneri for your help earlier this spring. First dormant persimmon grafting experiment was a success. 5/6 took. Thank you @RUenvsci for the scionwood!
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I thought I was done with dormant grafting a while back. I was even planning next year’s scions, when @Barkslip sent me a bunch of American and Hybrid persimmon scions to play with. Here I am experimenting with my very first double graft of Barbra’s Blush aka WS8-10 on my Fuyu (Jiro) through Chuchupaka interstem. I also grafted one directly on Fuyu to see what happens
Reading about Chuchupaka only now. I wish I grafted it alone and only used Nikita’s Gift as interstem as I have multiple grafts of that already. May be that one exposed bud of the interstem will leaf out or there is always next season 
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Very healthy looking!
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Also, thank you @ramv @Livinginawe @jujubemulberry and @k8tpayaso for your input on grafting mulberries. I have about 20/25 successful grafts on existing trees this spring. Here’s one of them:
Thanks for sharing scionwood @DennisD and @k8tpayaso
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Some of my pear scions were very successful - and then the deer got them. But I think they are ‘coming back’ - and we built a chicken wire cage around the trees, which (thank goodness) seems to be enough to deter the deer . . . . for now.
My apple scions are doing very well. I believe this is Keepsake on Aunt Rachel. Wolf River is amazing - on Ashmead’s Kernel. (I need to get a pic.)
We need to give some of the trees more room, already. Don’t know how this ‘individual caging’ will work, long term . . . (It won’t!) these trees are fast growers!
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The only success from my first ever attempted grafting session back in January, where I grafted 5 avocado scions onto Hass seedlings. I later realized I wasn’t making long enough cuts on scion and stock, but this Joey is doing well (the other 4 failed):
My frankentrees that I grafted about a month later had better success, but with some ugly grafts that haven’t fully knitted/healed yet…
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It’s June Greenwood Grafting Time, now. Dormant scions will not graft much successfully forward. Here is what you do for late in the season bark grafting of dormant scionwood. You saw the branch you’re going to bark graft onto half way thru and allow it to hang over on the other side to draw the sap to that side & away from the scion side. Here you will see a scion in place on the opposite side of the branch hanging. There’s also another bark graft next to it, left.
You can always still chip bud. I don’t t-bud so I don’t know it’s season, length.
Bark Graft where half of branch is left on to draw sap away from the scion grafted on other side of half hanging branch
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Hey guys, I’m here again.
I’m sorry I didn’t participate for a while but I have had a knee prosthesis surgery that has kept me out of the game for a while.
Dax I see that you are a champion and you have grafted again as if you were crazy hahahahaha.
You asked Murky a question regarding the grafting of persimmon on Diospyros Virginiana, and I will answer you a little more extensively with the advantages and disadvantages of the three most used rootstocks.
In Spain, three different types of rootstock are used both at an amateur and professional level:
- Diospyros Lotus
- Diospyros Virginiana
- Diospyros caqui (rootstock obtained from the seed of a variety of persimmon whose fruit has been pollinated, in Spain seeds of the Rojo Brillante variety are used)
Diospyros Lotus, emits a very shallow root system, has medium vigor, and is used in plantations where the soil is fertile, and has a low or neutral pH, has excellent compatibility with astringent varieties, and little graft compatibility with many non-astringent varieties
Diospyros Virginiana, has a very deep root system and usually emits an important taproot, tolerates high pH soils well, is of vigorous growth, and has very good affinity with both astringent and non-astringent varieties.
Diospyros caqui (seed of a variety of persimmon normally Rojo Brillante ), is the most vigorous rootstock of the three, emits a very deep root system, tolerates soils with high pH without problems, and has total affinity with all kinds of varieties, the only drawback is that it develops trees that are too large in size
I know you are very good at grafting with all kinds of systems, in Spain the “standard” grafting system for persimmon both at an amateur and professional level is the Chip Budding graft since the unions are perfect.
Chip Budding grafting is carried out on the young seedlings, a short period of time (about 10-15 days) is allowed to pass, so that the graft is consolidated, and after that period the rootstock is decapitated to force the sprouting from the chip budding graft.
Regards
Jose
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Jose,
Thanks for your detailed post above.
Can you tell us about the compatibility of Lotus and Caqui rootstocks with virginiana scionwood?
That technique above is great for skinny trees w/o a strong nurse branch, Jose, great to see you.
Thanks, Ramv,
Dax
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I like the hanging branch. I probably should have done that. I have a slow growing graft on what I think virginiana rootstock, it was grafted pretty high, and I think a redundant variety. So I chopped it at its knees and grafted Maru (California) to it, since it is right next to my Chocolate and its male flowers.
It was already relatively low vigor, might have benefited from keeping a few leaves while this new Maru graft knits. We’ll see.
I was short of grafting sites, the two virginiana rootstocks I got from Burnt Ridge don’t look like they are going to leaf out. I didn’t complain because 1) it was already part of a make-up shipment and I don’t want to be a whiner and 2) more importantly, I left them in the shipping box for over a week before I planed them out - bare root in the late winter.
edit) in case it matters, I grafted directly to the rootstock, cut off all of the previous variety.
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Some of my Hachiya persimmon grafts are already nearly 6 foot higher than the root stocks. In just 7 weeks.
So do I prune them back? I’ve braced them. I didn’t think they grow so fast
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Are they branching any? If not I would top them where you want your scaffolds to start. Topping them off will cause them to form more buds, more branches, and more fruit in the long run.
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Some horizontals coming out
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Beautiful.
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Deer pushed into the fencing around a pear tree with several recent grafts and removed off all of the new growth. All of the scions buds were putting out growth, and the deer fully and completely removed all of it (leaving no partial shoots, etc. ). Can I expect the scion to put out new growth?
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what the above 6-8 posts are asking:
you should be continuing as much growth as possible as a single shoot to above deer height; depending upon how much “growing time” remains is how you proceed. If the new growth is spindly vs. strong and you’re able to stake growth and allow all 6’ @ggrindle is showing, then, that’s pretty normal for a vigor graft as a bark graft in any season. I tried to tell you guys over and over not to use @k8tpayaso wooden cook skewers 13 or 14" long as your “after cooking - Dinner Time is here so you’ll return and stake them after dinner and then that’s what you show you silly girl… lol.” so then there’s that.
Some people graft 10 or 12’ up and eventually if you’re growing nut trees vs. “controlled growing” of apples, and not pears really, but yes, a lot of everybody here is pruning and I have a " … plan to do the same with my all persimmon & pear orchard;
@ggrindle horizontals I would pinch off. Just continue to pinch the top bud that decides to grow forward anytime, now.
@YumYumTrees adventitious buds are under bud scales and you should wait a year, at least (this time, Next Mid JULY, not June.) whatever is still alive from the scratch test of exposing the green cambium under bark with a fingernail or knife, that tells … the story of the scion which whether is green under the bark or dead/any color of brown w/o any green-ness.
@murky you and I and everyone else need 3/8’s inch caliper or better to plant directly to the earth… that’s just it.
you need a very well-branched persimmon root system for any chance of success, also. Persimmons are one of thee worst trees to attempt to try to transplant. The have little to usually none roots at the time of arrival on any size of tree it seems - except for some of the 3/8th’s or more I find one of 25 of.
really we all outta be growing in 24" plus raised beds either seed grown or transplanted, purchased rootstocks
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