Couple of persimmon bark grafts that took well this season. Looking forward to trying both in the future
I think Jon’s Pride is gonna be really pretty.
Couple of persimmon bark grafts that took well this season. Looking forward to trying both in the future
I think Jon’s Pride is gonna be really pretty.
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I could use some advice on what to do with my developing bench grafts? I was not ever able to conquer the Whip & Tongue - so these are simple cleft grafts. I hope they will be strong enough.
But - What do I do at this stage, to train them to Central or even Modified Central leader?
I keep clipping off competing branches that are trying to become leaders . . .
Other than that . . . please advise.
In some cases the branch I intended to leave as a leader - is growing more horizontal than I’d like. Or is not the strongest. Or both!
I would like to keep the tree that is G-969. It seems to want to be an open center . . . while some of the others are easily central leader. I’m going to post some pics here in hopes that someone will offer advice. I feel as though ‘I should know this by now’ . . . but I don’t.
I’d like to be able to plant my 969 tree this fall. And the others I am giving as gifts to friends.
I unwrapped my disintegrating graft tapes and looked at the grafts. One I re-wrapped.
Grimes Golden M7
Apparently I did a saddle graft on this one.
And a tree on G890. Below. I’m not sure I want one of these. I may not live long enough to ever see an apple! 
I don’t know how this happened - but I forgot to label this one. I know it’s a Grimes Golden, but don’t know what rootstock. I looked back at my rootstock order. It probably is a B118. I may keep that one, too.
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You could pinch the tips from the growth/branches that you don’t want as a leader to force growth into one leader. You might have to do that repeatedly. I’m not familiar with 969 though. You could stake the central leader on that one in the event of a storm…depending on how strong the union is.
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I don’t see any B118’s…should have reddish coloring of bark (or burgundy, not red).
And G890 should start to bear in 3 years they say…my 2 year old ones have had no blooms yet. (I did get a couple apples on Antonovka and several on G11 and B9 at two years old.)
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@snowflake and @BlueBerry
Thanks! I wondered if someone could possibly identify them by the bark or some other feature. I guess I didn’t use the B118s for some reason.
G969 was appealing to me because I read that it has very good anchorage, good disease resistance and is reported to keep a tree at 8-12’ tall. It is also tolerant of all kinds of soils. It seemed quite similar to G890 - just not as tall. I lost a Grimes Golden M-7 that broke off at the roots in a storm. Another M-7 - a Goldrush - is doing very well. I’d like to have a tree that does not require staking, though.
We also have a Pink Lady. It was planted at the same time as the others - but has remained very small and has strangely twisted branches. It’s a deer magnet. They love to eat the branches of this one. We fenced it this spring - so it has grown a bit - but not as much as I expected. It is G41. And it has never done too well. May not be the rootstock’s fault. May be the ‘deer pruning’. May be the variety? I don’t know enough to figure it out.
I find the rootstock info very interesting and am glad that I have trees on a variety of stocks. It’s fun ‘experimenting’ and seeing what happens.
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@PomGranny
I mentioned the stake on G969 more as just a short term to train the most vigorous shoot upward and protect the new graft in the short term (from wind or other) as you unwrap the graft. Something I didn’t notice at quick glance is that your most vigorous shoot is the lowest of the 3 branches. Why do trees have to be so stubborn? 
Probably a variety of options in that case. I think I would still pinch any new growth on the two shorter branches (if there is any new growth this year) and then eventually remove those two branches if I didn’t want branching too low to the ground. Some people might prune to just one leader this year.
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I added grafts to 5 pawpaws… When I had finished, and it had started to drizzle, I took a tiny, and I mean very tiny (toothpick sized, less than 1/2 inch) piece of scion that I had trimmed and I quickly grafted it to a seedling… Then I ran into the house, beating out the down-pour…
Well, of course this is the only one of mine that has pushed any growth and I have no idea which of the varieties I had been grafting it could be… And it is heavily shadowed by a mulberry and lilacs…
But at least I got one… (though I am still watching some others…)
Scott
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So my experiment grafting onto a pawpaw with brandy-new branches appears to have been a great idea. I had a lot of tiny buds left and figured, why not.
The taller tree here is the one I’m referring to. I think I have 5 out of 7 grafts as takes. Thanks for the encouragement @oscar, and @Franp here it is!
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Yeah, I wish I had more firm understanding on which “G” roots are free standing…for I hate to have a bunch of stakes. I’ve staked nothing much to date, but most of my young trees have not beared yet either.
I’m afraid my G202 trees (I dont’ have too many) may end up having to be staked…at six feet and 4 years the caliper is still not big as a “Sharpie”. I have more than two dozen grafts to G890, so I do hope they are free standing as advertised.
M7 I consider free standing, but it will lean away from the prevailing wind direction.
My only complaint of M7 is slowness to bear.
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I bought a Bramley’s Seedling on G890 in 2017. It’s bearing this year for first time. Free standing and solid. Probably 8’ at present. Actually one of my prettiest trees.
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Ryan @urbangardener
congratulations on experiment!
Are scions different types of paw paws?
I’m also very interested in your just posted Shenandoah cutting propagation attempts!
Will you cover with plastic, glass or another material to create moist environment?
edit:
I’m going to replicate your new cutting propagation experiment. I’ll cover, and use rootone and miracle grow potting soil.
Thanks again for inspiration!
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Here’s those grafts now (one month later)
There are (2) heartnuts on black walnut:
I cut off the big leader bud and a middle bud to leave a single bud on the left side. That helped force that scion to grow.
This is the graft shown above where half the rootstock branch/leader was left hanging to draw sap away from the grafted side.
The other scion just now having began to show life, 2/3’s of it was cut off to leave that single bud that is now pushing/growing.
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(bottom) Susquehanna, mango, Nyomi’s Delicious, Al Horn’s White, PA Golden, Marshmallow, leader tropical treat on my tree Fran. So it appears that Mango and Marshmallow did not take.
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Dax, when you leave a branch hanging for a nut tree to draw sap as you did here, do you recommend keeping said branch attached to the tree for a certain amount of time?
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Until the graft has leaves, then cut it completely off.
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Would that work for sappy mulberries?
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5’ of growth and still growing. This is the persimmon I cut to one bud only. I’ve been watering it nearly every day. No fert.
The two shoots at the bottom are adventitious shoots that arose. I let them grow for biomass and one I left/let to grow to about 15-18" for scionwood, next-year.
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Sure, Katy. You might have to cut the rootstock a few days in advance to stop the bleeding/slow it. So cut it off flush to see how much bleeding is happening. You got to slow that down, first.
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Here’s another good example of making a better tree.
This is a Deer Magnet persimmon Fall of Last Year which was the same of the Spring of this. I cut it to to one bud:
Again a few Adventitious Shoots arose below the single bud that I was keeping to make my new ‘Whip’ as its’ called in the nursery trade. It’s been a wonderful, rainy, year and the land and farm fields are beautiful. So, this one I haven’t watered except once or twice. Here are these adventitious shoots. Again I allowed one to grow a bit extra to have a nice piece of scionwood:
Poultry fencing returned cause I was weeding under it tonite:
Those two stakes I’ll use to wrap around more poultry fencing before winter this year. I’ll grow it as a single trunk up to above deer browse (5’ to 6’ or 2-meters) and then begin the branching for each tree’s future on my property.
What a change of a wimpy, tree with a bunch of non-vigor branches that would of made great rabbit foot and produced more non-vigorous branching.
This is why chip budding is so awesome and that’s how places such as Stark Brothers grows their trees. That’s the same how I do. Chip buds or cutting back to a single bud which will always produce the most vigor.
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