Grafting thread 2021

I’m posting this for @Barkslip. Thanks for the reminder Dax!

" It’s mid-July which means it is time to remove your bud strips or various tapes you may have used to secure your unions.

You should be checking the union for stability; your grafts should have already been staked however if not, you should stake it now.

It unions aren’t strong or weak in some/any way, you should re-wrap and check again mid-July, next year.

Put it on your calendar or in your mind that mid-July is time to check your knife work or grafting tool work. "

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And for some trees that might grow very rapidly after grafting (like persimmon), having a stake that extends up higher than the tender new growth can help protect that growth from bird breakage.

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Can I expect the open side of an uneven diameter cleft graft to fill in with callous? If so, how long? My graft has taken and grown approx 2ft tall, yet half of the root stocks cleft remains open because the scion was so narrow.

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Is it wrapped/sealed in any way at the moment? Might help to do that again if not, from my reading of the grafters handbook, but my own experience is minimal thus far

Its currently wrapped with grafting tape. I removed some yesterday to have a look but rewrapped it after. I have wrapped my grafts very tightly with multiple layers. The tape has practically fused together and is very difficult to remove.

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Did several persimmon grafts in 8b, SC on some bigger wild rootstocks. Taking off good!!! I think they like that SC heat. This is Early Jewel .

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One of my persimmon grafts this year

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H63A

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Deer Magnet and Deer Candy. Deer Candy burned out during the heat wave…then re-pushed buds and is catching up.

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Just posted this: Grafting book

I´m hoping someone will advise me on this bud graft. I´m a total neophyte with grafting. I recently attempted a persimmon bud graft, but failed to put a ¨lip¨ at the base to serve as a perch for the chip. My concern now is that as it grows and becomes heavier, it will slough off. I´ve considered re-wrapping at the base and top to secure it but wonder whether I´d simply be knocking it off in the process.

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Gene, how long ago did you perform this graft? That information may help those more experienced than both of us to give you a better recommendation.

My first (modified) W/T graft. Copied it from the few pics shared by @fruitgrower. This is DFIC 0023 Palmata Hybrid on Peter’s Honey

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Hi Ryan — it’s very recent, I think I made the cuts at the beginning of June and took the wraps off at the beginning of July. Spring starts late here.

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@GeneH
I think the more that grows the stronger it will become.
Rewraping may be good , with parafilm , in a very gentle way.
Such as to not apply any pressure to it but to keep it from moving.
Or just leave it be…?
It looks to be barely attached .but healthy and growing,it will get stronger as it grows .
If that is the only growing point ,in 2-3 weeks it will be much bigger and better attached,may secure it with a bamboo stake as it grows to keep birds and wind from blowing it out,
Good luck

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Thanks for the reminder @ctduckhunter!

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Here’s a fig graft I made a month ago. I messed up a lot of my cutting before getting the scion cut correctly, since the wood was so soft. Much less time consuming and less effort than rooting cuttings or making airlayers. I have some in ground trees that provide plenty of rooted branches I can dig up to use as rootstock.



I-258 on Hardy Chicago

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Don’t worry about that, it will grow out fine. I forced some apple buds a few weeks ago, one of the chips has a huge open gap at the bottom but it is still growing fine. Which is good as the deer broke into the fence I had on it and took out the one other growing bud.

The main thing to be concerned with is to make sure the bud keeps growing and does not get out-competed by anything higher. Here is a persimmon I am forcing now, you can see I bent over all the other shoots to make the bud apically dominant.

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@scottfsmith
Scott ( or others ) how late in the season have you had good luck with chip buds on persimmons.?
As I remember, late August or later they start to produce a black sap on wounds ,such as grafts , causing failures.
At least that has been what I remember on the few late ones.
Have you experienced the black sap ?

I had a couple with black sap this year….had never seen it before in my vast years of experience (THREE :joy::joy::joy:)

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