I’ve only done earlier buds on persimmons… usually because some graft failed and I wanted to try to still get it going in the same year.
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Here is a few grafts I did, pawpaw and kaki and almond:
Uploading: 20210711_191100.jpg… Uploading: 20210629_204347.jpg…
Hmm adding some more pictures my phone is slow
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Has anyone seen wax girdle or stunt the growth of scion? I used a red cheese wax to seal my grafts and it appears to be having an adverse effect on the growth at the base of the scion.
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I’m going to try chip bud grafting tomorrow. A couple of questions:
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I know the chip should come from first year growth, but does the recipient branch need to also be first year growth? Or can I pick any any reasonable spot between any two buds? Or even the trunk if the tree is itself first-year and has a small diameter, like < 1"?
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Can put multiple chips on the same recipient branch or trunk area to increase my odds that one takes where I want it?
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When one fails, do I leave it entirely and let it heal over? Remove the chip and keep wrapped?
Thank you!
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- You can chip on older branches but it gets more difficult as the bark gets thicker. You need to align the cambium, not the bark so the chip usually ends up smaller than the cutout on older branches.
- Sure go for it.
- I don’t do anything if a chip fails. Usually the tree pushes out the chip after a while and heals over.
And protect your parafilm from the sun. It can crack in a few days in summer and then your chip dries out.
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Hopefully my first and only Persimmon graft is going to make it. Was a purchased Hachiya, grew well the first year, top part died the next spring. The “rootstock” grew so I left it alone 2 years and W&T grafted Prok onto it this spring.
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Graft a persimmon today, 91 *, a little hot for grafting, a little late to.
After wrapping, cover with persimmon leaves and wrap again. Just playing around.
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Hope everybody having great growth with their grafts. I feel I have a few questions that no matter how much research or google or YouTubing I do I can find the answers. This is my 2nd year grafting apples. Last year had about 5 grafts take of 20 but saw some serious growth. Can somebody help me understand will the growth from the bud become the main trunk of the apple tree? (I will attach a photo) what will I expect a grafted apple tree to look year to year? I use M.111 from Cummins Nursery. Should I fertilize a 2nd year grafted apple tree? Thank you I’m advance.
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Light fertilization is fine. Even the first year. But if you hope your tree stays straight…better cut some bamboo.
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I remember trying 10 or 12 in Sept when I had 2-weeks of temps still 75 or 70 F with the rest of Fall after that getting cooler. None of them took, Dave. I had wondered the same, so, tried it to learn for myself & others. Otherwise, I got something like 37 of 42 chips I did for a friend locally during June or July when I usually do most of my chip work.
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Any suggestion on fertilizer to use?
I’m apt to use anything I have on hands…so I’m not the one to ask.
To keep it simple, Osmocote applied in the spring is good for 90 days or more.
And slow release encapsulated fertilizers of any brand might do as well.
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I’m having decent success (finally!) with grafting citrus so far this year. These were done in July when I top-worked my Meyer lemon with a number of kumquats. Of course, these grafts can still fail later so I wanted to take pics and pat myself on the back before they do 
Some cool looking young growth
Kaffir lime
Centennial kumquat - The leaves are starting to show the variegation
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I’ve been having great success t-budding Japanese plums onto rootstocks that didn’t take dormant grafts, putting pollinator/backup branches on a few things, and top working things that were duds. super easy and doesn’t seem to take a lot of skill in lining anything up
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/propagation/budding/budding.html
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Yes, if it is trained to be dominant (highest part of tree), and if tree is pruned correctly.
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A great apple mystery you never heard of solved, perhaps. In 1891, a New Jersey fruit entrepreneur with a catalog introduced a new apple variety exclusively available through him, the Glowing Coal. It was big; it was beautiful; and it had excellent taste. He never revealed where he came upon this apple, and sadly for him it did not become a household name. One or two other apple growers got a hold of it and sold it in their catalogs, too. It became widely enough known that in some state pomological conferences, this new apple variety was debated. It was the opinion of many that the new apple was simply the Ohio Nonpareil being sold by a different name. Others said, no, the apples were different. The Ohio Nonpareil had been grown widely in the Midwest, but not so much in New Jersey and other eastern states. The ON is thought to be a larger and later ripening child of the Gravenstein. Intrigued by the forgotten controversy, I acquired scionwood of both Glowing Coal and Ohio Nonpareil. Look for yourselves. GC has reddish leaves and ON has regular green leaves. Don’t know how different the apples might be, but the infant trees look very different.
Note: I don’t know when I’ll be able to sample the apples, since one fault of Ohio Nonpareil I’ve seen listed is that it is very slooooooow to first produce fruit.
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This spring I topworked a total of 4 trees and grafted on 2 more. I got a really good take rate, about 80%. I guess this was because the weather just after grafting was sunny, but not too hot. In June and July there were very few sunny or even dry days, which I feel has lead to stagnation in the growth of the scions. I’m wondering how well they’ll overwinter…
Anyway here are some pictures:
This is a Beauty of Bath on Akane ( 26 of July.) Here I bound the graft with raffia and sealed it with a commercial balm for tree wounds. Most of the other grafts were sealed with bees wax. I feel that the bees wax is superior because it begins to crack and crumble after a while, while the bark under the tree balm is really ugly and discolored. If it had been dry and hot, the cracking of the bee’s wax would no doubt have been a disadvantage.
The topworked trees with bark grafts have some really rough edges. On some grafts it looks like the cut split itself open wider…I am anxious too see how they progress…
This is Oetwiler Reinette on Prinzenapfel, also on 26.
This graft the bark looks much healthier but I am a bit nervous about the way no callousing is visible on the edges…
This grafts are examples of what I mean with the cut splitting farther…
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One of the many avocado grafts I’ve done this summer (this one is Poncho on a Bacon seedling), and the first one to have the parafilm pop off. Looks like it healed nicely!
I also grafted a few scions of other seedlings of Luma apiculata on my bush, in the hope of improving fruit set (with 100s of flowers and only 2 fruit so far):
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I had a few extra Mexicola scions after grafting today, decided to try grafting them on my California bay laurel tree, even though the literature says they aren’t compatible. Better than composting them!
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This was a ~toothpick caliper scion. I stuck (3) toothpick caliper scions equally apart around a 3/4 in. apple M7 rootstock. All three healed and I allowed the two weaker scions to grow 3-5 leaves and then I kept them there until now. If they tried growing again, I’d stop them right away pinching them with my fingernails or using my carrying knife.
Someone (I won’t mention their name @ctduckhunter) laughed when I showed him the initial grafting pic. What do you think now? I’m the one laughing!
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