If you snip any on it next time…put a scion near the top of some other tree and that should boost it’s vigor. I have 3 apple ‘frankentrees’…sold one, and plan to convert a couple 6 year old trees into multi-grafts next spring…a seedling that has miniature fruits (bore first time this year…seems to be a Y.D. crossed to crabapple.) ( Haven’t eaten a little one yet…if they’re red inside, I’ll keep them) and I plan to add varieties to a Fuji on a M111.
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Sounds like a plan. I’m so looking forward to grafting again. It was one of the highlights of my year, no kidding.
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I’m tickled to report I have Dula’s Beauty on both B-9 and B-118. One died on B-9…but I’d not done an inventory.
Other things I grafted for first time this year and they have lived include:
Pink Pearl,
Johnson’s Keeper,
Snow Sweet,
Red Astrachan
Breakwell’s Seedling
Ashmead’s Kernal
Red Royal Limbertwig
Zabergau Reinette
Liberty
Summer Rambo
Black Gilliflower
Karmidjn de Sonneville
Yellow Newtown Pippin
Hauer Pippin
Bevan’s Favorite.
(York and Nehou and Horse and Rubaiyat failed)
And I made additional copies of many of my existing apples.
And I made copies of some that I’m not supposed to have and I’ll leave them un-named. 
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I have pink pearl on at least six trees, one that fruited this year initially. My Black Gilliflower did not make it. Odysso was touch and go but its come back on two trees. I would love, love to try Rubaiyat. That Bills red flesh is not a sure thing, but there is definitely some life coming back. I have at least one horse and Braeburn also. Winter and Redfield did not make it, nor did Spartan or Giant Russian. I think I have one Fuji. Greeming also made it on one tree.
Like trying out red apples, I have a few red peaches which should do well next year. Blaze prince, indian blood. Had quite a few plums and apricots on peaches which should be interesting!
I loved grafting!! I still check them regularly.
I like (unofficially) un named things. 
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Odysso is easy to graft…one of the highest take rates. I’ve added at least one more graft from it every year since I had it, and all but one has taken I think. Probably not the Giant Russian, but I’ll have at least 5 red fleshed that may fruit first time next year for me, winter red flesh among them I think. And a similar number of regular apples should fruit first time.
Don’t currently have any peaches, but I grafted a red fleshed pear that seems to be going to make it.
My pear grafting didn’t do so great to OHxF97…much better luck to callery or ‘frankentree’.
And finally I did get a root cutting of B-9 to take…first time in 3 years of trying.
I meant to do a ‘stool bed’ of B-9 and B-118 but so far have not.
I did steal a couple root suckers and successfully benchgraft some M111
this past spring.
And I have an Odysso…just one apple…that seems to be nearing ripening. It is a bit ‘tall’ in shape rather than round or flattened…and definitely not as big as a tennis ball…maybe more like a short stubby cucumber in size.
Planning to add to ‘frankentrees’ and not do so many benchgrafts of apples in 2022. (I do have a half dozen Fuji seedlings big enough to graft to.)
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Regina . . .
me too.
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I am in zone 6, can I still do any kind of green on green graft now? I am mainly interested in grafting peach, plum and pear. I have done green on green graft in the summer, but never this late.
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Budding might do best at end of August?
Thanks!
I ended up doing about 60 chip and t-bud grafts of various fruits about 50 days ago. They are wrapped in parafilm and then aluminum foil. I’ve unwrapped a few and the chip is sealed to the tree, kind of like it’s covered with melted wax. Not sure what the success rate might be or if that looks normal.
Should I just leave them all in the foil until next spring? Remove foil for winter but leave parafilm?
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Here is an update on my maiden attempt at grafting three weeks ago, Aug. 20. First a photo:
Of 11 cleft grafts to shoots from the stump of my virginiana male tree, 9 have apparently taken, while 2 (both Rojo Brillanti) exhibit a bit of bud swell and I am cautiously optimistic about them. The one chip graft I tried is not doing anything as yet. It’s encouraging to have some beginner’s luck! 
I am sure that ideal temps played a big part - several days in a row cycling between 70 and 85 degrees - plus a big rootstock. It’s enough encouragement so I will try again next Spring with grafts to individual seedlings planted this year. Of course, these grafts still have to make it through the winter, but hope springs eternal!
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The avocado grafting continues unabated in the greenhouse, here’s a freshly grafted Duke scion on Bacon seedling rootstock:
And just thought I’d share my ugliest successful graft of 2021 so far. This is also Duke, on one of the in-ground frankentrees, grafted in March/April:
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I think this is the right place for two grafting questions from a newbie; hopefully they are not persimmon-specific, though that’s what I’ll apply the answers to…
1 - When using Parafilm and rubber bands for grafting, which should be done first? I did my first grafts with Parafilm first and then rubber bands on top. Now, after 3-1/2 weeks (grafts done on 8/20, and most apparently successful), I see the rubber bands developing cracks. Should I have put the bands on first and then the Parafilm, or doesn’t it matter?
2 - Since I did the grafts the third week of August, and the two healthiest (both JT-02) have pushed out 6" of new growth, should I take special steps to protect the new growth from future frost? (I’m in zone 6b/7A, so maybe in mid to late October will see the first frost.) If so, what’s the best way to protect them? Spraying with WiltPruf? They are all on shoots from a big stump and can’t be dug up.
Thanks, experts!
Rick
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@scottfsmith I did a number of parafilm chip and t-bud grafts at the end of July that I covered with aluminum foil when temps were in the 90-100s. It’s now two months later and 70-80s. Time to take aluminum foil off before winter (first frost in about a month). Leave parafilm on for winter?
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I usually leave it on … some times the buds have exposed edges and it may help from drying out.
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Sumo citrus (aka Dekopon) is sought after in CCPP and the scions were only available starting October. We still got it even though its not ideal conditions to graft. Of course, I couldn’t control myself and got a stick of Ponkan as well Both are showing some sign of life less than 3 weeks after grafting. Hope they survive through the winter and come out flushing in spring
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Yesterday it snowed for the first time and I visited all my grafts again. Some I cut back a little, so they don’t break off from snow. Overall I’m very happy with how much these have grown in just one summer.
This is the Mantet tree that I grafted over:
I’m looking forward to see how these will develop next year and how long it takes until the bark graft are healed over. I’m happy with the take-rate but the wounds are really ugly…
My experiment of pear on mountain ash looks really neat and tidy. But this graft has not grown all summer, only made one leaf and a new bud. This winter I’ll try again in a better location.
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ive got 6 pear varieties grafted on my mountain ash. once they heal over they grow very rapidly. almost too vigorous as i have to cutback / notch to keep them under control. going to tie the top ones down so they grow more out than up.
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Apical dominance is key (ie if pear is grafted at top of mountain ash tree it will grow more…)
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