I see new growth 2 to 4 inches long on most seedlings, we have had abundant rain, and temps are in an acceptable range. I’m going to set a few grafts tomorrow.
Anyone else ready to graft pecans?
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I grafted some about a month ago before they came out of dormancy, and the Creek you shared about two weeks ago with active growth on tree. One of the first grafts is showing some growth, the other ones still look healthy and I’m confident that most will take. I might have grafted them too early since the bark would not peel off that easy. The last ones yes.
I’m ready, but biding my time, a bit yet.
33F and a pretty heavy frost here this morning, but by the end of week, we may be in a reasonable temperature range to consider trying a few.
I waited a few days for perfect grafting weather. We had temps around 72F most of today with overnight low forecast of 60F. We also had very light sprinkling rain most of the afternoon. Soil moisture is high from rain a few day ago. Seedling growth is from 1 to 6 inches and the bark is slipping. Lows in the mid 60’s and highs in the mid 80’s are forecast for the next 4 days. This rings all the bells for near perfect pecan grafting conditions. I made grafts of these 17 varieties using either bark graft or whip & tongue depending on rootstock size.
A.C.E.
Amling
Apalachee
Cherryle
Elliott
Excel
Gafford
Huffman
Kanza
Kiowa
Lakota
McMillan
Nacono
Oconee
Sumner
Syrup Mill
Tobacco Barn
I still have 7 more varieties to graft, may be able to finish up tomorrow.
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First promising graft of Elliot. I had given up as none of my others grafts show signs of growth but this one gives me hope since it was pne of the earliest ones I grafted and it just started to push
interesting trivia, with pecans, the longer it takes for buds to break, the more likely the graft will be successful. I have several grafts made May 25/26 that have just now pushed green buds. I’m looking at much better results than normal, maybe 85% success rate.
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How long do you leave the tape or rubberbands on the graft? @Fusion_power
I don’t want to remove them early and graft fails or leave them for too long and the rubberband girdles the graft.
When new growth above the graft is 18 inches tall, you can remove the tape. If it is a bark graft, drive a stake in or tie to the rootstock and brace the scion. I’ve had grafts blown out or a bird will land on one and break it.
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Hi Darrel, have you had any of your grafts push and die and come back next year? or once the die they did for sure? I did like 20 grafts and only four have green growth but some had growth but then dried up, but the scion still looks like green.
It sometimes happens that a graft succeeds but has no live buds therefore does not grow. I’ve also seen a few where the graft healed just enough to keep the bottom of the scion green even though the top died. If this happens, almost always it is in a dry climate. A different graft technique such as Bill Reid’s method using plastic bags can help.
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Thanks!
Bumping this thread back to life
@Fusionpower in another (older) thread you mention a particular bud graft you use for some pecans. Any chance you know of a link that describes it?
I’m considering alternatives to flap grafting this year -I’d like to try approaches that minimize bleeding.
Thanks
-Pete
Long bud grafts were recommended by Auburn after one of the grad students trialed it and found it works very well on older stocks 1 inch diameter and larger. He cut a bud 3 to 4 inches long, flat on one side and sliced a bit of the bark off on the bud side of the stick on each end. He did NOT remove the woody part from the bud.
Lay the bud up to the side of a tree and use a sharp tipped knife to cut on each side. Slice across the middle of the strip and peel back both sides. Then insert the bud and cover it with the bark flaps top and bottom cutting off any excess bark. Use staples or nails and graft sealant to protect the bud.
After care is important because the top of the tree will cause the bud to die. Cut the top off of the tree as soon as the bud shows growth and keep disbudding the rootstock forcing the inserted bud into active growth. Protect the growing bud from birds by taping a piece of bamboo or similar stick to the rootstock so the birds will land on it instead of the growing bud.
I have this along with pictures in a book from 30+ years ago. Not sure where the book is currently located but can make a bud graft of this type and take pictures if you need them.
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This type bud graft works very well because the top of the tree remains in place until the bud is partially healed in on the side of the tree. The bud is rapidly connected to cambium both top and bottom which effectively doubles chances that it will be accepted. The top can be removed usually about 10 to 12 days after the bud was inserted.
I checked grafts made nearly 3 weeks ago and found active growth on 8 out of 10 grafts made. The two that have not popped buds yet are Kalos and Hickory Major. Pecan is finicky often initiating growth early and then dying when the growth is 2 or 3 inches long. I’ll know in a few weeks how successful this year’s grafts have been.
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THANK YOU! I think I got it - what is the book, just out of curiosity? I may already have a copy and if not, might want to pick one up!
I’m also considering trying a side graft - they’ve worked well for stone fruit this year, and don’t require that I cut off the top of the rootstock
It is a self-published 3 ring binder that I got from Bill Goff about 1990. I have not seen the information anywhere else.
I didn’t know this several years ago and left some buds growing without cutting out the top of the tree. Every single bud died within a few weeks.