History of growing apples in America

I am looking for anyones knowledge or references for learning about old apple growing techniques. It seems, from what I can learn online searching, that very poisonous sprays were used way back in the 1800’s (arsenic etc) and still exists in american soils hundreds of years later. But, I also see hundreds of apple trees where I live (SW Virginia) just growing along roadsides and old properties and fields, completely unattended and pushing out edible apples annually. On standard rootstocks especially, I believe apples can be grown without spraying - but I’m just going off of observation.

For me personally, I don’t care about losing 80% of a crop to insects and other pressures because I’m just growing for my family. So, I’d like to learn more about the people and the times when that’s how apples were grown as well - just for families without sprays. If anyone has experience growing this way themselves (especially in VA) or knows of good resources of history please do share!

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Look for books published in the early 1900’s. I have a set from 1910 covering most common plants including lawns, ferns, fruits, vegetables, etc. Some of the tips should never be used, but others are simple ways to grow things that are timeless. Arsenic, bordeaux mixture, wood ashes, and salt from slaughtering meat are all part of the methods used. One very useful tip is to put wood ashes around the trunk of peach trees to prevent borers.

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My Father always saved his wood ashes for the trunks of peach trees!
I suppose it works, but until you mentioned it I had forgotten this practice. Maybe I will use it now with my peach trees
Thanks for the memory!
Dennis
Kent, wa

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This from Virginia Tech pathology notes concerning controlling overwintering diseases in leaf litter under apple trees.
" In organic apple orchards urea is not allowed. When ground is without snow cover and it is not muddy, use flail mower using a scalp mode to shred leaves to smaller pieces instead (this method can also be combined with urea in conventional apple orchards). If practical, rake leaves into row middles from under the trees and remove leaf piles with flail mower mode for scalping the sod. Instead of urea, lime can be applied in both organic and conventional orchards at a rate of 2.5 tons / A. If lime is used, it is better to apply it after the leaf drop in fall or early in the winter. Lime increases pH or basicity of soil, thus promoting microbial activity and litter breakdown. Both practices can reduce apple scab inoculum for around 50% and we are not sure has the reduction effect ever been quantified on overwintering spores of D. coronariae ."
https://treefruitpathology.spes.vt.edu/2023/11/15/1-urea-or-lime-can-reduce-overwintering-inoculum-of-apple-scab-and-marssonina-leaf-blotch-in-apple-leaf-litter-2-peach-leaf-curl-insurance-with-ziram-copper-fall-and-chlororthalonil-spring/

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Just because times were old; it did not necessarily mean more healthy. Ash. Interesting stuff. Can contribute heavy metal to soil. A lot of the treatments they used were to be charitable; not healthy. Nicotine for example.

That said, there are loads of old Heritage Apples that grow pretty good no spray. And some new ones. As a general rule; most of the Triploids are easy disease few tending. But nothing is bullet proof.

And remember many modern treatments are made for commercial type growers. Like you; apples will be a nice bonus for me. I want to propagate them with enough fruit to breed. Which means bagging fruit. Which adds some protection.

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I, too, am in SW VA, looking for heritage apple breeds to plant in my new beginner orchard.

Any resources you find, I would very much appreciate it if you’d share. I’ll gladly do the same. I’m looking for the old mix used in apple butter, pies, jam/jellies, etc.

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Gen, look at http://bighorsecreekfarm.com/

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The Joyners are great folks at Horse Creek.

There is Jason and the crew at UNC/ Horne Creek Farm

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Thank you so much!! I’m overwhelmed with the amount of info I’m finding, so targeted resources are really appreciated.

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One more recommendation to add to the existing excellent ones: David Joyner at Century Farm Orchards.

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Dude! This is fantastic!! EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR!!!

WoW - such wonderful info! Cannot thank you enough.

Much appreciated! This is a wonderful resource.
Thank you so very much. My eyes were crossed and my brain frazzled.

The list would not be complete without Larry at Southern Cultured Orchard on facebook. Who sells many great heritage trees from Alabama to Texas.

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As has already been mentioned, many folks relied on resilient apple trees—because they pruned little and sprayed even less. One man, remembering his childhood in Berea, Kentucky, in the 1930s, recalled that his father’s care of his orchard (including spring lime sulfur sprays)—and also his knowledge of grafting—set him apart from his neighbors:

The orchard was in stark contrast to that of our neighbors. The older country orchards were of the older varieties of apples that one found then, such as shortcores or sheep-nosed apples and sweet apples. None of our neighbors ever pruned their trees as Dad did, and none of them ever sprayed. Dad had a big barrel that he hauled in the back of the wagon. The top would clamp on, so that it could be pressurized, and first Ruth and then Earl, if they weren’t in school, drove him up and down the rows of trees in the horse drawn wagon, while Dad pumped air into the barrel to pressurize it and sprayed the trees. With a long rubber hose with a long pipe extension on it, he sprayed the trees in the spring with a sulphurous mixture that stunk like hell, as he did when he came into the house.

Also, in contrast to our neighbors, Dad learned to take cuttings and buds from trees, so that he could graft what he wanted. He would carefully splice a graft and cover it with wax to protect it until it grew together. He would sit at night in the living room and with a pocket knife, carefully split the bark lengthwise, of what he wanted to graft, and then insert a bud and seal it with wax. He did a lot of work at night of this kind.

From George Kilbourne, Remembrance: Reflections on the Memories of Maud and John Kilbourne (Privately Printed, 2013), 217.

Many people naturally favored apples that could take some negelct. Short Core (mentioned above) was widespread in Kentucky (and in some parts of Tennessee—and possibly also SW Virginia, as Tom Brown lists a “Short Core” as one of his Grayson County finds) because 1.) it apparently resisted diseases such as scab; 2.) it stored all winter;[*] 3.) it resisted codling moth because of its hard, dense flesh; and 4.) it could be propagated by root suckers, no knowledge of grafting required.

Of course, disease/pest pressure was not what it is now, and what was once no-spray will probably at least need a low-spray program in most areas.

[*]NOTE: The author remembers the keeping ability of Short Core apples harvested at his grandparents’ house in Berea:

There was an orchard just east of the house. Right at the end of the sideyard was one of the biggest shortcore apple trees I have ever seen. It was always loaded with apples. The apples were picked in the fall and stored in the barn until they ripened. Those apples were as hard as rocks until after Christmas. Other kinds of apples that ripened earlier filled out the year. One fall, Nancy and I filled the cavity of the big holly tree with those apples and covered then with hay. We forgot about them until spring. When we dipped into them, they were nice and ripe

For those interested, here’s the entry for Short Core at Horne Creek (complete with a purdy picture): Apple Index - "Sally Gray to Slope" | NC Historic Sites

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