I’m going to give my Mulberry tree some Osmacote Plus but not sure how much. I’ve read directions say 1cap every 4 square ft. The area around the tree is 4 square ft. Is 1cap full the right amount for this inground tree?
I would use something much cheaper like a bag of 12-12-12
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You should avoid fertilizing newly planted trees. You could damage the roots. They need time to heal and establish. If tree was not just planted you can put about a cup at the most around the drip line. Half cup would be safe.
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I’ve never fertilize my mulberry (Gerardi) after the first year or so, but I have pretty fertile clay soil. If I was using Osmocote Plus for that tree, I’d use 1/2 cup scattered around the surface then cover it with a couple inches of wood mulch, or if it is mulched, pull back the mulch and scatter, then push the mulch back over. That will give it a light feeding through most of the growing season as it is released and works down into the soil.
I use Osmocote a lot for potted trees, but for in ground I usually just use a balanced granular fertilizer or one of the organic “tone” types I just have around (e.g. tomatotone) to give them a little push in the spring if I want them to size up faster. But like with the mulberry, I generally don’t fertilize my trees after the first few years.
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The best way to fertilize that young tree would be to remove your bricks, lay down several sheets of newspaper or cardboard in a circle that goes about a foot beyond the drip line, then cover the paper about 6” deep with wood chips starting about 2” deep near the trunk and increasing to 6” beyond the drip line. By smothering out your turf, you will convert those nutrients into organics that the tree feeder roots will enjoy! Thereafter, as the drip line expands with the tree growing, extend the mulch layer further outward and add some to assure you have 6” of mulch. As the mulch breaks down into rich topsoil, you will be feeding the tree using natures best way as the earthworms and microbes breakdown the woodchips into food for your tree. Meanwhile you will save on your water bill. Once your tree is producing fruit, your daily watering will be much less than without the mulch.
At the present time, any nutrients you add around the drip line will be consumed by the turf! So find a way to mulch it ASAP. Woodchips are best, leaf litter will work, well cured compost will work.
Since I mulched my IE mulberry it’s annual production has doubled, I never add any fertilizers, simply woodchips
Dennis
Kent, wa
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I’ve not found that to be the case, at least if you use slow release and/or organic ferts. I see noticeably better performance when I fertilize newly planted trees, shrubs, etc.
Sure, if you put grains of 30-30-30 in direct contact with the roots, you might have trouble. But I avoid that stuff anyway.
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I agree all gardening is local. Shrubs is fine it’s trees only that you should avoid fertilizing. This is current thinking in horticulture. But of course you can do what you think best. If nitrogen helped roots I would agree with you. I think root growth is of vital importance in trees. Shrubs have smaller root structures and respond well to transfer. Trees not so much. Shrubs don’t runt out, trees do though. Sometimes what you do now, won’t show up for three years. I lost three trees to wet feet when my yard was flooded as was the whole city. One tree took three years to die. Only those trees on citation survived.
I still have them five years later.
Anyway trees are slow to recover from root damage( transplanting) I think current practice is correct.
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I agree that using high-N, immediately available ferts at planting is no good. Slow release, on the other hand, is much safer. I’m basing this on 5 years at this location. I’ll admit that’s not a ton of time, but enough time to see whether delayed problems will show up. I should also clarify that I tend to be quite stingy with fertilizer in general. A heavy dose for me is still probably on the light side compared to what it seems most others do.
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I’m a big fan of slow release. I use three different brands depending what deal I can get. I like all three a lot.
From this extension service bulletin
Newly planted trees and shrubs lack the ability to absorb nutrients until they grow an adequate root system. Fertilizing at planting with quicklyavailable nutrient sources is not recommended and may actually inhibit root growth. However, a soil test is useful to determine the need for adjusting pH before planting. If the soil test indicates a need for phosphorus or potassium, incorporate these nutrients into the bed or backfill at planting time as directed.
I guess it does include shrubs.
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Thanks for all the help everyone I really appreciate it 
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