Hello friends I’m beginner to apple farming and from India
In my orchard there is scab fungus i had tried many fungicides like Carbendazim, Tebuconazole,flauxapyroxad, metiram but the result is not getting
So can you please share the cure for it after post harvest
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You have to treat the tree and small new fruits. Immunox is good in combination with triazicide, for insects.
I do not know of any treatment to “cure for it after post harvest”. Most fungicides that work for apple scab are preventative not curative. They must be applied prior to infection to prevent the scab spores from germinating on the leaf or fruit.
Captan and Rally are two that work well. Rally, Eagle and Immunox are all brands that contain the same active ingredient (myclobutanil).
There are other fungicides that prevent scab too but these are some I have experience with. What apple varieties are you growing in India?
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Well I’m growing old Royal delicious on seedling
I need some information regarding apple varieties and rootstock so can you please help me out??
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The only cure is to plant resistant varieties, or move to another climate. It spreads by spores, like blackspot. You can keep things clean and spray regularly, but there is no cure for nature. You may as well try to permanently rid your kitchen of mold and bacteria. Even if you sterilize the whole thing, it will find its way back. You can probably keep it under control with good culture and spray.
This may be of some use.
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I need some information regarding apple varieties and rootstock so can you please help me out??
There are plenty of apple varieties with resistance to scab, but which ones are available in India and can perform where you are I don’t know. There have been successful breeding programs and lots of varieties introduced in Europe and the U.S.
What you need is information specifically for your region.
As far as compounds to fight it, the go to is myclobutanil. It has some serious kickback but it can’t erase existing lesions on fruit. Once it sets it’s rain fast because it is locally systemic. Takes about an hour of good drying conditions to set. If you are growing at a commercial volume you should tank mix with Captan to slow scab resistance. It has become worthless in many orchards in the Hudson Valley near me in New York State from overuse and the fact that it is a single lock defender. In other words, fungus doesn’t have a lot to overcome to develop immunity. Captan has been used for decades without leading to mass immunity.
Rootstocks have nothing to do with scab that I’m aware of.
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This site lists these varieties as scab-immune. You will have to check chill hour requirements and availability.
http://nwfruit.org/recommended-fruit-trees/
Pristine
Williams’ Pride
Prima
Dayton
Releika
Rajka
Liberty
Belmac
Goldstar
This is Tom Burford’s list of scab resistant trees. Arkansas Black, Ashmead’s Kernel, Black Twig, Bramley’s Seedling, Dayton, Enterprise, Freedom, Goldrush, Golden Russet, Hudson’s Golden Gem, Jefferis, King David, Liberty, Limbertwig. Mother, Roxbury Russet, saint Edmund’s Pippin, Spartan, Stayman (old strain), Summer Rambo, Tompkins County King, Tydeman’s Early, William’s Pride, Wolf River, Yates.
Obviously there have been several delicious varieties introduced since that were specifically bred for resistance, which may mean they do a better job of it. Adams lists Pristine, Redfree, Initial, Crimsons Crisp, Crimson Gold, Liberty, Galarina, Freedom, Nova Spy, Querina, Enterprise, Winecrisp, Goldrush.
Any of you grow Winecrisp?
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I had Winecrisp growing for one year and it was one of the most infected with cedar rust. Immunox is supposed to be the best spray to stop an infection from getting established.
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