I have a Bartlett pear (root stock could be the reason? ) in my backyard, too many water shoots every year and only a little flowers. Anybody know what chemical can stop water shoots growing, and make it more fruitful?
Please send me a source to buy it if possible.
this is so sad to hear. …
I don’t think that there’s a solution to the rootstock suckering.
Most pears are notoriously slow to come into production. That could be all it is.
Cut back (more like cut out) all Nitrogen. Make sure it has sufficient Potassium.
Might try spraying the foliage with a weak solution of Monopotassium Phosphate, every couple of weeks during growing season. Near equal parts of highly soluble Potassium and Phosphorus. (And incidentally the active ingredient in Gatorade.)
300 ppm is about right. Roughly 1/2 teaspoon per gallon or less. Use the excess on your rose bushes.
Are the “water shoot” suckers coming from the base of the trunk or on the main branches?
I also understood that they are new growth on the tree.
Yes, a rootstock affects the vigor of fruit trees; what is it?
Also, Bartlett is a vigorous cultivar.
also, this
How old is the tree?
Generally, you have to reduce harsh pruning and you should start bending limbs.
New growth that goes vertically and towards the inside of the crown should be broken off at the beginning of growth, when they are green and soft. You should bend a number of other shoots to discourage growth and stimulate the formation of flower (mixed) buds.
This is just a general instruction, for now; maybe someone will direct you to a good source. Search this forum too.
Thanks a lot for the recipe, will try this right now.
main branches.
Thanks a lot. Have tried bending a little shoots before, and the new water shoots come back again and again, even after cutting off. The tree is around 10 years old, and the root-stock might be Pyrus calleryana, or Pyrus communis.
What sorts of amendments have you consistently put under this tree over the years?
Have you given it any foliar fertilizer treatments on an annual basis?
Lots of compost was added to the soil around the tree every year.
There are lots of knowledge! That’s great to control the growth in organic way. I will do some homework and thanks a lot!
@fruitlovest
That’s mostly nitrogen with relatively small amounts of other nutrients – even when broken down by soil biology.
I can provide you with the names and amounts of a couple materials to balance it out each year. Are you only interested in “organic” rated supplements or willing to use conventional?
I try my best to follow the organic way, but the tree need to be fruitful first, then strict organic way. I am OK with chemical or hormone treatment if necessary. Appreciate any advice to control the growth and to be fruitful
@fruitlovest
From what I understand your tree extends 2 to 3 meters horizontally from the trunk in 2 or more directions.
You’ve been putting a layer of mulch down every year under the entire extent of its branches. I recommend you keep doing that, although don’t pile it up against the trunk.
But right before you put the mulch down, I recommend you apply the following evenly where the mulch will be placed. A hand spreader might come in handy.
The goal is to put down a maximum of net 1 lb (sorry) each of phosphate and potash, without any chlorine (muriate), and not too much sulfur – which can be balanced by calcium.
For the phosphate I recommend Super Phosphate, made from soft rock phosphate. It is usually rated 0-18-0 here in the states. Now that 18 means 18% phosphate by weight. So 5 lbs of it will get you net about 1 lb of phosphate, plus some vital calcium and also some sulfur.
For the potash I recommend Sul-Po-Mag, sometimes referred to as Langbeinite. It is rated 0-0-22 in the states, and similar to above the 22 means 22% potash. As you probably guessed, 5 lbs of it will get you net about 1 lb of potash, plus some vital magnesium and also more sulfur.
I recommend you check the pH of your soil in several places under the tree in the summer following the first application. We’d like it to be strictly above 5.5 and more ideally at 6.2 – although the range 6 to 6.5 is fine.
If your soil pH is too low in the midsummer, then some agricultural calcium will need to be added to the above.
Thanks a lot, I will try it