I have a peach tree that was girdled by a shrew/vole. Not 100% though……Let’s say somewhere between 80% to 90% of the trunk diameter.
It is a 4-5 year old tree that is has a diameter of 3-4 inches.
I’m wondering how I should prune it if it has this level of damage. Do I prune it as I normally would ? Or do a light pruning ? or leave it alone since it is recovering ?
(i’ve been doing peaches for 25 yrs and have never had this type of damage before. Definately had apple tree victims, but never peach trees. So i’ve since put metal screen around the base of the tree- using an office stapler to hold it together).
The important part is the cambium, the green layer under the bark. If this is girdled all around, then you have to bridge graft the gap, otherwise the tree will die.
80 to 90% is bad. The tree is probably a goner. If it does survive, it will most likely get canker at the site and not survive long term. I have had some peach trees which have had 75% trunk dieback at the base and survived and healed, but lots that have died after a few years too.
Still, peach trees can be resilient. Sometimes surprisingly so.
Peaches are hard to graft anyway, and bridge grafts are tricky, but you could try bridge grafting, as folkert suggests.
Here’s my advice, which runs counter to what most people will tell you. I would not prune the tree. The reason is that I’ve read not to prune peaches which have heavy trunk winter dieback. Pruning puts the tree under more stress. Plus the extra foliage from not pruning helps the trunk wound heal.
The tree will likely abort any foliage it can’t support anyway. Let the tree choose what it wants to abort. I’d be shocked if you didn’t loose some scaffolds, but I’d let the tree choose.
Again, I’m sure I’ll get lots of pushback for that advice, but I’ve tried it both ways for trunk dieback and trunk canker. I’ve had better luck letting the tree decide what it wants to “prune” when there is severe trunk dieback.
My second, admittedly very controversial, recommendation is that I would slather a bunch of cheap latex caulk over the wound. I normally never use wound sealants on peach trees, as they can do more harm than good. But there is some evidence I’ve read if the girdle wound is protected it can help transport water, even though the tree is girdled. It’s been a long time since I’ve read it, so I can’t remember the source, but I believe it was solid.
I tried it with the 75% girdled apple tree several years ago, and didn’t get any canopy dieback. The trunk has since pretty much completely healed.
of days. It was in really bad shape on both sides. I did not do a thing to it except put it back in the ground, and I’ve did very little pruning on it. I didn’t take a picture of the other side, but it looks just about as bad as this side, however, it is going to make some peaches this year, so who knows
I just noticed a peach today with 90% girdling from a deer rub last year. It already had self pruned much of the tree but there were a few more bits not budding that I removed. So I agree with Mark, no need to prune as the tree will take care of the job.
I wished I had noticed it sooner, it is probably a goner but it’s a bit late to move a nursery tree in its place. When I move peach trees with any leaves out at all they often die.
Makes sense to me. The trunk and branches will have stores of nutrients (nitrogen and sugars) that may be available to help with callus formation at the site of damage. If you prune it, then the tree has less resources. So, you are betting that the tree will prioritize healing of the girdled section, which is reasonable, because over evolution this type of damage was a common and serious event.
That’s rough, 80-90% is a lot to come back from. Olpea’s advice about planting a replacement now makes sense, peaches grow fast enough that you won’t lose much time if the damaged one doesn’t pull through. Hardware cloth around the base of the new one from day one though, voles are relentless once they find a tree they like.
