Doesn’t appear to work with Americans
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Hello,
I’m CarolinaZone. I’m new to the forum and I’m a subtropical and temperate fruit enthusiast. On to the persimmons…
I have two Nikita’s Gifts and two Rossyankas. Those four produce. In my opinion they taste like asian persimmons and they have none of the American flavor that I like. They are definitely hardy in my 7A/7B area. They are very sensitive to nitrogen fertilizer in my soil. Nikita is more spreading or bushy compared to Rossyanka. Nikita holds fruit better.
I have Prok, Weber, Ruby, Yates, Prairie Star, Prairie Sun, Prairie Gem, Garrettson, John Rick, Suruga, Maekawa Jiro, and Raven. They are all too you and have not borne any fruit.
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I have NG. I don’t detect any Asian taste in it. It tastes similar to American. Texture is the same, very soft.
@CaroliaZone – Good info. Can you answer some questions?
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When you say “sensitive to nitrogen” what do you mean. What’s the reaction?
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Do you have a pollinator? You you think your trees need one?
Thanks!
@jrd51 They will drop a lot more fruit if they are fertilized with even moderate nitrogen fertilizer.
I don’t use a pollinator. I live in a neighborhood that has several old American persimmon trees. I think these may provide pollination for my trees sometimes because one year I had seeds in one fruit. The rest were seedless.
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Thanks. I generally apply some 10-10-10 early in the season. I’ll be careful.
Your evidence re pollination may be helpful. Many forum members claim that persimmons will hold fruit better if pollinated. I suspect that this is at best true only in some special circumstances or for some varieties. My IKKJ, Prok, and Kassandra all hold fruit well despite no pollination. Your experience sounds similar.
For ex: Nikita's Gift Persimmon Fruit Drop? - #69 by Robert
FWIW, I did get seeds in a tiny proportion of the Prok fruit in one season, probably because a sucker growing from the roots of the presumably make rootstock blossomed. As far as I know there are no other persimmons within 2-3 miles and there are certainly no native trees.
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@jrd51
Do you have an idea where I can acquire a Sestronka persimmon tree? I purchased most of mine from Edible Landscaping except the suruga and the maekawa jiro came from Just Fruits and Exotics and the prairie collection came from One Green world. As a side note. The Just Fruits and Exotics and Edible Landscaping trees were quite a bit bigger than the One Green World trees at the same pot size and price.
I got Sestronka trees that will go for sale which I’ll announce 2-4 weeks prior to mid-Oct. on this forum. I’ve got several of them.
Here’s an example of what I ship which provides rabbit protection.
That’s my own tree for me. The ones for sale right now average 5’ but I’ll have to cut them to around 3.5’. They all are 3/8ths plus caliper.
I’ve got a ton of persimmon cultivars. They’ll be on either northern or southern rootstock which I cannot say is which for (individual trees.) That’s zone 6b and above to be sure.
You’ll get that about 24 inch long container and (2) landscape staples to hold it in place and you might/should add (2) more ‘stakes’ which I won’t send; you will get a 6’ bamboo stake though to train the tree (s) to.
It’s eBay and I’ll post the acct. later then, too… (mid-Oct. shipping, once-again).
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@Barkslip Have you eaten one? Can you describe it? BTW where did you get the scions? The reason I ask is I only rarely buy from private dealers and I need to be very sure I am getting the tree/cultvar I am looking for since it i will be used in a Public horticulture garden.
Thanks
It came from a collector.
I bought most of my American cultivars from Jerry Lehman. I can provenance most everything to Lehman or to the actual ortet tree(s) themselves.
Send me a pm with your list. You might have some others I need. I really appreciate the offer.
I’ve purchased persimmon trees from Edible Landscaping and Just Fruits and Exotics and consider them both to be reputable nurseries. But you can’t have complete confidence that the cultivars they sell will be correct. I got an “Izu” from EL that turned out to be shaped like Giombo/Hachiya and astringent. They sent me a replacement, and that has produced non-astringent fruit that looks right. But I would put more trust in a collector sharing scionwood from a tree that has produced fruit and matches the cultivar’s descriptions.
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To make it fair and because of all the rare material I have, I have to have them all go for sale at once. Every tree will have an individual photo or more: eBay
I’m going to post a listing of culitvars -once I write the post September-ish. I have a lot of rare stuff.
I wish I had better news for you, and everyone else-
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You tried sealing them in a container with concentrated CO2 gas from dry ice or liquid CO2 or from reacting baking soda with vinegar?
Or tried the banana 
approach or both together?
Why not try Meader?
Supposed to be less astringent with good American persimmon taste.
Welcome to the group!
I don’t know about Sestronka but you have other info here.
I tried alcohol, CO2 from baking soda, bananas for ethylene, plus combinations. Plus heat. All on Prok. No observable impact.
Also I’ve previously asked forum members for ANY evidence that the measures that are helpful in astringent Asians will work in Americans. No one provided any. But there were many stories about failure.
All the success stories relate to Asian astringents.
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Well meader is a future possibility but to be honest I want another hybrid. Since it is backcrossed with Americana I assume it is going to be bigger than the big Americans. As I understand it, alot of the hybrids were created to make a more cold tolerant Asian tasting persimmon. I prefer the American butterscotch, rum toffee flavor. The Asians all seem to have a very strong betacarotene flavor even they are ripe. Sestronka is rumored to be a almost kaki sized and very American tasting.
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I would prefer the flavor of fully ripe Diospyros Virginia, or Texana is a good cultivar.
But we are back to size.
Wish I knew what Dar Sofiyivky tastes like.
Copper often delays tannin ripening, in several different ways:
- Increased Iron assimilation, resulting in increased Chlorophyll-A, resulting in increased Auxin, resulting in increased Cytokinins from root tips, Cytokinins stimulate vegetative growth & delay tannin ripening. If using Copper spray for diseases on a high tannin crops near harvest, avoid young leaves which produce Auxin.
- Copper increases auto immune system response. When leaves are eaten by invasive insects, tannins are produced as a self defense mechanism. Best to use a treatment to protect against invasive insects if using copper for disease.
- If using Copper spray on a high tannin crop, consult someone like @Richard who claims to know of Copper products which don’t increase tannin production.