Indoor strawberry new leaf tip burn


This winter I am experimenting growing strawberry indoor with artificial light. Plants seem doing fairly well, except I start to see some plants’ new leaves tip burn (edges are darken / black). After googling, I still can not tell what the problem is. Can you help?

Thank you and a very happy new year!

Strawberry Evie, Indoor, 62F-70F. LED full spectrum light includes UV.

It might be salt burn. But I’d expect that more on leaf margins not just the tips of new leaves.

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You could look around at My first guess is root rot, over watering is a possibility. When dry, add one cup of hydrogen peroxide to a gallon of water to give the roots a boost of oxygen, and kill some pests like fungus gnats. If you add a touch of compost to the potting mix, that will prevent root rot in the future. Old time gardeners germinate seed in compost, an art lost to the soiless mixes…

I grow strawberries in pots, even small hanging pots, they can get very dry and be fine, let them dry then water, don’t keep moist. Also don’t leave them dry for days and days.
One or two days is fine.


Thank you all.

I just came across this link. The leaves are pretty much the same as my strawberry problem.
It said Calcium Deficiency. If this is the issue, I wonder how do I correct this Calcium Deficiency?

Thank you

The quickest way would be calcium nitrate fertilizer. Any complete fertilizer like foliage pro, tap water. I usually have a problem of too much calcium from using tap water.
I doubt you have a calcium problem, but since it does look a touch like it, I would try a supplement. Lime works too, but you need a few months for it to break down. I guess a calcium deficiency could happen if the pH is off. If the mix was very acidic, dolomite lime would be the best option in that case.

Since they are in pots, you could just repot them with new soil which has calcium.

Or you could add Ca to the pots, but with that small an amount of soil it can get quite hard not to over do it. You also would need to know something about the current state of your soil. Gypsum adds Ca and does not effect pH, but the quantity you’d need would be tiny per pot.

Foliar sprays might be a good way to go. They make a Ca spray for tomatoes to fight blossom end rot, I would think that could be used on strawberries too, but would test on one or two plants first.

Also worth considering is that over or under watering can cause Ca deficiencies even if the Ca is present in the soil (e.g. blossom end rot in tomatoes). So if the soil has been constantly wet or dry with swings between those extremes, it may just take changing your watering pattern to fix this.


Good advice Steve, yes the tomato products for BER would work, and should not hurt the strawberries. Strawberries like acidic soils though, my strawberries that grow with my blueberries in soil that is around 5.0 do fine. Steve you hit on a watering problem, as did I, I see this as the most likely problem.Calcium deficiencies are very rare and mostly due to a pH problem.

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I think the other suggestions are probably right, but one other thought is that it might be the result of some type of mildew/mold at the edges of the leaves where you’re likely to get water hanging either post watering or even condensing if it is really humid/moist. Do you have good air circulation around the plants? I find that when I start a bunch of seedlings under lights the humidity can build up without a fan going and the fan also helps dry the soil a bit between waterings.

Hi, I just went through exact problem with my strawberries. I know it is an old thread but thought I’d share my experience. For me it was over fertilizer. I kept it indoor and it also developed gnat problem so I repotted the patch with just perlite and coco coir, now the new leaves are coming out, no burnt and gnats are gone. Win win.


Sorry never follow up this thread. This was a problem I had for 1st year.

Since then I increased the moisture of the grow room by spreading water with spread bottle at night helped fix the problem.