Have you mixed Captan with Merivon and not have any issues?
Merivon doesn’t want you to use pH reduction products with it. Captan has a very short half life at pH7 which is what my water is. Half life of 8 hours.
I love how good Merivon is and it’s broad label and friendly PHI, but it has a lot of restrictions as to additives and tank mixes. I guess it’s a little fickle.
I used Chat to review it as I was wanting to add Calcium chloride in a tank mix and it said no.
Would love to here some first hand use stories. I sprayed it Wednesday with Assail, and Movento. I used regulaid as a surfactant and Pinene as a sticker. No issues.
I have used it last year on my muscadines and had total control of black rot. Half-life of 8 hours gives you plenty of time to spay, if you make the “solution” fresh. Also, what you are spraying is mostly a suspension (meaning most captan is not dissolved. So, the stability of the spray should be better than stability of a strict solution (not sure though how the half life was determined, but normally it would be from a dilute solution, because otherwise the dissolution rate would likely drive the speed of decomposition). Once on the plant, you are dealing with a complete solid again, upon drying. So, I would not worry, just don’t let it stand around after mixing.
I posted this on the grafting thread because I thought it was graft issue, but now I’m wondering if the abrupt decline of this Olympic Asian pear is fireblight? Was shriveled with black tips/edges of the leaves yesterday and this is today
Thanks.. I’m 11 years in at this point so past the honeymoon stage. Nonetheless new diseases and pests keep popping up it seems like. I got by just fine at first using Michael Phillips “holistic” regimen. Last year though I switched to synthetic insecticide and fungicide. Added in Captan this year because of some summer rots. Based on what you advised and some additional research it certainly sounds like fungicides in multiple FRAC groups may be required for total control. Thanks for the recommendations.
Never saw smile bites on my apples before. Looks like we might have curcs? (and a squirrel too? Or maybe they are all squirrel bites. We had a population explosion.)
Is this a form of canker on my Blenheim apricot tree, and do I have to remove it from my orchard to prevent it from impacting other stone fruit?
Over the winter either a rabbit or squirrel nibbled on the bark of the trunk, and now the tree looks like it caught some form of infection that is spreading through the limbs.
Does the last picture look normal? I was hoping it is something as simple as leftover surround spray accumulating on the bark on my trees, but started to notice the bark pattern in the last picture on adjacent apricot trees and a plum tree 70 yards away.
The direction that the loss is progressing would indicate something from the lower end working its way up. In my opinion graft failure would be a better assumption than FB since its not withering from the tip to form that hook. Maybe FB bacteria entering through the grafting wound if it is involved at all?
Thanks, that was my best guess too but I’m not a fig person and never seen it in real life. It’s just on a couple of branches, maybe 1/3 of the plant—spread like that normal?
I first noticed it when it started getting sprayed by the lawn sprinklers so had hopes it was just some something related to getting sprayed but I suspect just coincidence.
I’d normally not even care since this is a volunteer off of a volunteer, (and both in bad places & needing removal) but I did just get a whip on discount and don’t want anything to spread to a “real” tree
@northwoodswis4 This year I tried several different ways to reduce coddling moth and apple maggot flies. We definitely have moths in the lure traps, but they’re too expensive for me to literally put two in every tree.
Red fake apples with tanglefoot, put out two days ago: no maggot flies yet.
Molasses traps: I can’t tell if there are any codling moth in there, because there are so many yellow jackets and earwigs.
Solar zapper that comes on after dusk: maybe a few codling moths, hard to tell how many. A bunch of little clear winged fliers.
There was oozing about 12-18 inches from the soil line, where the animals ate some bark, earlier in the season. I assumed that was the tree trying to protect itself from the injury and not borers, since it was at least a foot off the ground.
My experience is if there is oozing where you can’t cut back to below the damage, the tree is going to die.
If the gummosis is on a limb, you can cut that back.
This is my first time dealing with some sort of canker on one of my nectarine trees. I’m not sure if it’s bacterial or fungal, though I don’t know if that matters much. Pictures below.
I have a few questions that are hopefully not off-topic:
The canker seems to span both the rootstock and the actual tree. Do you think the best course of action is to just remove the tree? My other two peach trees are about 15 feet away from this infected tree.
This is my only stonefruit with fruit on it this year since all of the others are too immature. Are the fruit edible? Will they ripen? After rainstorms they’ll ooze sap at specific points, and now most of the fruit are covered in small black dots.
If I were to remove this tree, is it inadvisable to plant another stonefruit in the same location? I’m not sure how long fungal spores or bacteria last in the soil.
Based on what I’ve read, it seems like treatment for both bacterial and fungal cankers are generally ineffective. Is that claim true? If not, how would you recommend I treat this?
I saw one of these large beetles 2 days ago for the first time ever and tonight saw 3 loudly buzzing around. How worried should I be? Got this one when I was out dropping squash bugs into soapy water.
