We planted 4 English walnut trees 3 or maybe 4 years ago. 2 grafted ones, Chandler and Franquette, have died above the graft but suckers from the rootstock are 2-3 ft tall. I was looking at ordering replacement trees ($35 ea) from Burnt Ridge but happened to see they offer scionwood of those varieties at $4 ea. I’d be happy to save money and take advantage of the already planted rootstock (probably black walnut)…but how hard is walnut grafting? I’ve only done apple and pear, cleft grafts. Is it worth trying given my low level of experience or should I just buy new trees (and my poor husband dig out the old rootstock, ugh!)
1 Like
I’ve never grafted nuts, and it’s my understanding that some of them are pretty picky -check Dax’s old threads for tips and links. But I think you should do it. For one, a vigorous, healthy rootstock gives you a couple of years, at least, jump on production. But better still is the experience. If the rootstocks are throwing good suckers you might have three or four to graft to, and each of the scions from Burnt Ridge should provide enough wood for two, three, or even four attempts. Even if only one takes you’re money ahead. That way even if they all fail you’ll have learned something. Or, hedge your bets: buy one tree and a couple of scions.
Good luck!
2 Likes
If they died above the graft - then remove the suckers. That’s if you meant above.
Feel free to message me.
Dax
1 Like
The grafted variety died. The only thing left is suckers sprouted from the rootstock. But as they are what the named English variety was grafted on in the beginning I though I might just give it a go to graft to them.
Best of luck JoAnna whatever you choose. Cleft grafting isn’t recommended for nut trees but that doesn’t mean it won’t work.
1 Like
I forgot that I have this saved to my bookmarks. It seems relevant to your question:
http://www.redfernfarm.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Mega-Chip-Grafting.pdf
“This technique, hereafter referred to as the Mega-Chipbud, has become my favorite for field grafting. It can be done on almost any species, and any time the bark is slipping. It requires very little skill, and yields high success from first time users on otherwise hard-to-graft species like pecan, hickory, and walnut. It is the best technique for chestnut, persimmon, and pawpaw. A variation of this method can be used for early season grafting before the bark begins to slip, and for bench grafting. It was recently imported from China, and as far as I know has no name in English yet (except for the unwieldy handle I gave it).”
3 Likes
The hands down easiest graft to make on walnut is an inlay side graft. This is essentially identical to a bark graft but is made on the side of an actively growing tree. Use wire nails to firmly attach the graft to the tree with a bark flap covering the bottom of the scion. One nail goes through the stick near the top of the cut, the other through the bark flat and the stick near the bottom. Wax over the graft area. I’ve had as high as 90% takes using this method just after buds break in spring. It is best done when daily temperatures are getting to 70 degrees and new growth is 2 to 6 inches long. Wait a week and look to see if the buds are breaking. If so, cut the top of the tree off a couple of feet above the graft. This forces buds on the graft to grow rapidly. Remove all buds that try to grow from the rootstock.
That mega chip bud grafting method was advocated by Bill Goff at Auburn for grafting pecans about 30 years ago. It has a lot of history. The best I remember, it was brought over by a guy from China where it is used for difficult to graft species.
3 Likes
Other than price, is there a reason to graft to black walnut rootstock over English? I want a grafted tree, but I am not eager to see if the other plants in the yard react to black walnut roots. We have a 30-35’ birch that needs to come down, and I am thinking it might be a good spot for an English walnut.
It depends on your objective. If you want a pest and disease tolerant tree, English walnut grafted to a black walnut rootstock will give some advantages. The disadvantages include that the roots produce a large amount of juglone which can kill several other species. If you just want a good walnut tree with less impact from juglone, you can graft an English walnut scion onto an English walnut rootstock. It will still produce juglone, just not at the level of a black walnut rootstock. If you want to go all out for vigorous growth, a Paradox rootstock is an option. It produces lots of juglone so has similar impact as a pure Black Walnut rootstock.
1 Like