Its really doing badly. The scion has not thickened very much, the stock has doubled
Can i bury it to above the graft line and let frostbite root on its own?
Frostbite on G11, cummins
Its really doing badly. The scion has not thickened very much, the stock has doubled
Its really doing badly. The scion has not thickened very much, the stock has doubled
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I think your graft union looks is okay but I’m not certain. I would cut that stub off that is sticking out preventing it from healing over.
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Yeah, i feel like that stub area is costing a lot of cambium.
If i cut it i dunno if the scion would heal over or not ? Its a big gap
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With the stub on it can’t heal. Carefully trim it off without removing live would and it will eventually cover over. The speed of healing is mostly related to how fast the top grows.
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Wait til dormant?
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I would cut it off now but either way would be okay.
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Thanks Bill
Do u have any thoughts on burying the graft after i trim that stump out? If frostbite roots it has room where it is
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As you said if the scion roots they might increase the tree size which is not bad if you want a big tree.
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As a backup in case your original tree dies you could graft a scion onto another tree.
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Both good ideas. Hadnt thought of backup graft but makes perfect sense
(It will be my first one!) 
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Auburn, having at least 6 trees from Cummins over the years, all their trees have a big stub like that. (I’m sure they lose fewer trees in the nursery…but I’m not thinking they’re doing the new owner any favors.)
And, yes, Frostbite on G11 was the first tree to succumb to drought conditions in early August. I actually picked a single fruit from it a couple weeks earlier. I’ve since lost about 5 out of near 150 apples I’ve grafted, plus a few purchased ones… All in containers.
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Its true that cummins trees are always angular at the graft site, - none of my others have a stub this big.
Ive really wanted frostbite for a few years. Frustrating.
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Reg, Agree with the others to cut off the stub, as close to the good wood as you can without cutting into it. I’ve done it several times and it heals over surprisingly fast. The trick is to get that dead wood down so the surrounding wood can easily grow over it. A coping saw with coarse blade can work and can follow that curve better than a straight saw. If you have or can get a fairly flat spoon gouge it really helps in getting the final cut surface down and smooth.
I wouldn’t bury it; it’ll heal fine above ground and you might stress the tree digging it up or buring the roots at this point. I think Frostbite is naturally a small tree, at least mine is and it’s on standard Antonovka. Mine bloomed at 2 yrs. I let it set a couple of apples that year and the next but it took this year off, which is probably just as well. It’s not a vigorous grower but a precocious fruiter which is nice for a change! Sue
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Sue, thanks for the advice. Im on board and will reduce the stub.
Glad to hear about Frostbite being a small precocious tree. Perfect. 
Do i have to stimulate the scion to begin closing the gap once i get rid of the stump? Or is the removal of that wood stimulus enough?
Will likely take some pics of the process and post them in spring.
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Just remove the stub and wait. It will take some time to cover. Just my guess is that it will take 1-2 years.
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Thanks 
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So, update
I started cutting back the protruding rootstock stub.
Erm.
Im in over half an inch, forming a divot. Its all dead wood. Judging it laterally the bit ive gouged out leaves maybe 5cm or so left of scion in a half circle behind the dead stump. If i go any further the tree will have no support at the graft level.
The scion has made no attempt to grow over the cavity. I think its too weak.
Im thinking of burying the union. Why not, bc this tree is just gonna limp along and likely die anyway.
Rgh.
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From looking at it, I’d guess this was budded and the protruding dead wood was root stock, not scion. I wouldn’t worry about getting the dead wood removed, just reduced so it’s below where the tree would heal over (sounds like you’ve accomplished that). I’m not sure I would bury the union with that open area exposing the heart of the tree. A low vigor tree on G.11 is probably going to be a slow grower. I think I would leave it and push growth with nitrogen, but be careful, too much could make the tree more susceptible to disease.
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Good advice, Andy. True that it’s obviously a budded tree.
I lost my Frostbite in August last year to the drought. I forget if it was on G11 or G41, without getting my invoice for the tree out or making a trek to look at the tag.
But, it came from Cummins, and had the same type of protrusion being described in this thread.
At some point I would have snipped it closer with pruning shears had it survived.
I ordered Frostbite again this year…on G210…it’s in the box awaiting me to plant it.
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Ok. I will fight my compulsion to bury the graft.
My other cummins trees also have the big ‘chunk’ at the graft but the other scions are doing ok.
Next year i will snag some wood. Graft it onto something else. I have almost no faith this tree will make it
Thanks