Mam,
Once your NG trunk bark thickened up in about 4 years. It will handled the cold much better. The small branches may die without protection but the large trunk may handled the cold much better. Here is base of my 8 years old Nikita’s Gift. The top is now a multigrafted Hybrids persimmon.
Strudeldog,I have concluded that Nikita’s Gift is a very sensitive variety. I too have noticed that the fruit drop on it has been excessive… I have two NGs, and they continued to drop fruit after the typical June drop, and it drove me crazy. My Saijo, Fuyu varieties, and Tamopan did not exhibit the same level of fruit drop. I think the best thing we can do is have a pollinator around, keep away from fertilizer, avoid watering, and pray. Mine put so much effort into green growth that the fruit just seem to fall on. They are about 8 feet high and very bushy.
Are many people are growing tam-kam?http://www.justfruitsandexotics.com/JFE/product/tam-kam-persimmon-tree/
Tam Kam Persimmon Tree – Non Astringent Persimmon
Another new cold hardy Korean persimmon whose name translates as “Very Sweet.” Bright orange, high quality fruit weighing about 6 oz. This is among the most winter hardy non-astringent persimmon. Tam Kam persimmon trees are small growers usually growing in the 10 to 15 foot range. Fruit ripens October through November. Zones 6-9.
It was earlier (post #44) in this thread. Tam Kam was good down to -4F, which mean that if you are strictly 6B (-5F being the lowest) you could be OK. I checked my notes again and it was -9F and -10F which caused almost complete die-back, not -8F and -9F.
Here’s my complete rundown: Tam Kam- As described above- survived several years in the 0F to -4F range without issue, but dies back to the protected base in -9F and -10F. Miss Kim- astringent which has survived unprotected at -10F for me and -11F for Cliff England. It actually had 2 fruit on it this year, that something nabbed off the tree in mid-Sept (supposed to be ripe in Oct). Huk Gam- a blue/black astringent which has survived unprotected at -10F for me and -11F for Cliff England (same as Miss Kim, but no fruit yet and a lower graft in the tree). Chinibel/Chinubli- Survived -9F with some die-back the year after grafting, then survived -10F with no protection the next year. OK for cliff to -11F. Maybe be non-astringent, as Cliff’s original description was “Chinibel Jenny bell N/A Kaki”. Vaniglia- Died during the -9F after grafting, though for Cliff it was OK at -11F. Kasandra- Supposed to be hardy to -16F. I grafted it last year and protected it, though the tip may have stuck through without dieback at 0F. Ichi Ki Kei Jiro- Not as hardy as Tam Kam- it died to the graft from -4F. Izu- More hardy than IKKJ, but less than Tam Kam. Lots of dieback, but not complete from the same winter that got IKKJ. Gwang Yang- Died back to the woodchips protecting the base, right after (fall) planting, at -10F. Yes, I know I shouldn’t have planted it in fall, but that was when the rest of the order went through and I didn’t want to wait on everything else… I protected it the 2nd year and can give it another try this year.
New from SMC:
Fujiwaragosho (DDIO 50)- PCNA
Chienting (DIDO 43)- PVNA from CRFG. JFaE offers it, though they say it is zone 7 and astringent (with an interesting spicy flavor).
Yotsumizo (DIDO 48)- PCA. Small fruit
I also grafted Nikita’s Gift, Prok, JT-02, H118, H120, and Early Golden this spring.
Here’s a pic of a multi-graft. Miss Kim has really started to take over (3 big branches at top) with Chinibel lower and Huk Gam growing in the weeds and raspberries near the bottom.
Thank you, Bob for the report. It is very helpful.
I did not even realize that your post that I mentioned was the previous post
@tonyOmahaz5. Here is the pic of my 5 ft tall Nikita Gift. Not in the best location. I let the very low branches stay. I want to keep low branches so I could winter protect and be sure they will survive. If the tree ever fruit, even bunnies could reach the fruit standing on the ground.
I have many Miss Kim on my tree this year, in fact too many so it is bent way down for deer munching. They are mostly leaving the fruits alone so far, probably because they are astringent.
I don’t know why not. Likely -18 to -20 Clark. Maybe more. Wild persimmons in their northern range are zone 4.
‘Prok’ trees have been growing in my area since before the zone change to 5b from 5a. While rare here, -12 to -15 is about as cold as it gets now. Most winters -15 isn’t seen. I think last winter we had two days that were -12. On rare occasion (every 10 years or so we will see a day or two at -20 but that typically won’t harm anything.)
‘Prok’ is probably a prodigy of ‘Early Golden’. All the great, large ones are via Claypool’s breeding and further continuation of his work being done by Jerry Lehman. ‘Early Golden’ is zone 4.
Early Golden and Prok seem like great choices for me. Early Golden is a non astringent is prok astringent? Thank you both for the information on Prok. I was kind of against growing it because I saw some negative reviews years ago but it seems most say the flavor is good nowadays. Early Golden has an exceptional flavor when I tried them in Lawrence Kansas a couple of weeks ago. It appears to be very hardy and the ones I ate had 1-2 seeds. I love the fact it’s early. Nikita’s Gift was huge at the same site but appears to be very late variety. Like most people I want a mix of early , mid, and late season types. Nikita’s Gift may be something I can grow in a sheltered spot. I have a rootstock planted in a protected location. Seems like there may be better choices than NG.