That looks great.
All my attempts failed. I may attempt again with green cuttings.
I still pin my hope on the “Lake Dallas” that my friend has promised. Going to be a project.
I believe the seedling types are “easier” to root than the cultivated grafted types. Honey Jar is actually a seedling type with small fruit and the thorns. With the long thorns, Coco looks like a seedling type too.
It’s an awfully thorny cultivar. If I hadn’t tasted a fruit the season before last—it was sweet—I’d be worried it was just rootstock.
Keep a watch on JF&E’s inventory, too. Their own-root So was a little pricey, but worth it. I hope mine will sucker one day!
It’s looking good for me. It’s been 1.5 months and they haven’t die yet. They seem to be pushing growth now. I don’t see any root from the bottom yet. Am I in the clear now or sometime they died after pushing out growth?
it is looking really great, considering one even launched an upright(perennial) stem. Here in vegas, none of our cuttings has exhibited such vegetative exuberance. Not even our airlayers has launched anything other than herbaceous(deciduous) stems, and the most vigor demonstrated was producing some flower buds.
almost certain yours is already growing some roots–else would be the first evidence of a jujube stem pulling a naughty prank…
This is the first mention I’ve heard of deciduous stems on jujube, but seems to apply to what I’ve observed on my very slow growing Honeyjar. Some limbs seem to stay succulent, while others get darkened bark and harden.
Interesting.
the lacy, spindly branches where virtually all juju flowers and leaves are borne do not lignify. From what have observed, there will sometimes be aberrant lignified flowering stems which may last longer than one growing season, but will lose vigor on next growing season and deteriorate in a couple years
The first growth on mine turned out to be herbaceous—or so I suspect, since I already see tiny round flower buds forming. Another growth is very slooooowly pushing out of the next bud down—so I’m keeping my fingers crossed. Maybe if I can keep the cutting alive it’ll push out new permanent growth eventually?
No. 2 is still just sitting there. Waiting is tough!
i can feel how painstaking it can be… Have to say many here are rootin’ for ya, literally and figuratively 
there are so many of us in this good forum attempting it already so ultimately self-rooted clones will be the norm among juju fanciers. Here in vegas, we get 1 out of 10 success rate, and even lower this year for bare-bottomed cuttings, but once the rooted ones get established(as i see it, after 3 growing seasons), you could poach up to 10 root cuttings from each on the 3rd winter, and then 15 to 20 on second , so should exponentially increase, since the root cuttings will develop concurrently and serially with ‘mother plant’ . All need do is plant in relatively big pots and on friable soil to facilitate taking cuttings from the rootball every winter.
keep us posted!
Update on jujube rooting experiment: No. 2, although it had definitely rooted, never regrew any leaves and finally died. No. 1 is still hanging in there at month seven. All new growth appears to be deciduous. It has exhibited a good deal of leaf curl all winter; not sure if this is a reaction to indoors conditions, or whether it’s lacking something. Have been feeding it periodically with fish emulsion + Pro-Tekt (an NPK of around 2-3-2). Has bloomed quite a bit. Although I prefer it would spend its energy otherwise, it’s been kind of nice to smell jujube flowers in winter!
My hope is that, if it can make it to spring, it’ll take off outside, maybe put on some root mass and permanent growth. Of course, I’m not going to get my hopes up too much.
If my grafted Coco is still alive when spring arrives, I intend to try some more cuttings, probably also an airlayer.
There must be some differences between the varieties that can thrive on their own and the ones that would not, even after they are rooted and somehow growing. There has to be some science behind the cultivars…
No doubt! But I guess we’ll have to find out the hard way! 
Hi Tony
I will be growing some from seed this year for the first time. How long should they grow in pots before they need to be planted in soil? Also are they better off in full or partial sun?
Dennis
Kent, wa
Full sun.
They can be kept alive and productive in pots for years, although that is not ideal.
Coco jujube cutting update. The good news is: it’s still alive about 10 months on—though looking a bit rough. The bad news is: it’s stalled out, with no permanent structural growth; it put on only deciduous growth over the winter. Perhaps it would benefit from a period of dormancy?
Getting some roots to form on a jujube cutting is apparently not the hardest part—getting it to turn into a jujube tree is!
Have you tried hitting it with fertilizer?
Fish emulsion + Pro-Tekt and Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 on a rotation. It put out deciduous growth like mad this winter—and ended up shedding some of it. It bloomed quite a bit, too. It was kind of nice smelling jujube flowers in the dead of winter. It hasn’t done anything in a couple of months, though—save grow more ragged.
Update: Almost a year later and my Coco jujube cutting is still alive after spending three months of dormancy in the refrigerator. It looks to be pushing some structural growth finally. In any case, this fat new shoot—much thicker than the usual, willowy deciduous growth—looks like it has structural potential to me:
If it successfully builds new permanent wood this season, it will have graduated from cutting to little jujube tree. It will be two years old this summer. When the JF&E folks said their own-root jujubes were “years in the making,” they weren’t kidding!
How are everybody else’s jujube cuttings/layers doing?
That’s looking good with a primary shoot forming. I have an airlayered Chico that is beginning its third year. I didn’t look for it to grow this spring but it has put out a primary shoot. It takes a lot to get these little guys growing good.
Any updates? Any made it to fruiting?
I took some honey jar cuttings and trying to get it to break dormancy and root indoors. I have done this with a fig before and it gave me a nice head start for the growing season… then again, figs are known to be a lot easier…
Method- Used rooting hormone, had a candle lit so even layered on wax on the bigger honey jar cuttings tip to prevent water loss (never done it before but I heard it has been done to seal grafts), I gave each cutting a node to root from and shaved the ends like a wedge for grafting (saw a Korean youtuber do this).
Using a human heat pad lol, this is how I start my peppers and tomatoes 
Planning to take some Li cuttings next since I will be doing winter pruning.
the branch like sticks are dead sticks to prevent the plastic bag from hitting the cuttings (for when i check on them)
I’m late to the party on this thread, but have a bit of nuance to add on this.
I’m sure full sun is better for growth, but if you have a limited amount of ideal locations, I think it is better to skimp on the best spots for seedlings, rather than the trees you are attempting to make fruit with. I’ve got several locations where I put a bunch of seedlings in partial sun, at much closer spacing than I would trees grown for fruit and they seem to grow fine.
In terms of pots vs in-ground, I find growing them in a pot for the first year, possibly 2 is the best approach. When I direct seed them in the ground, it is hard to keep them from getting swallowed up by weeds (or rabbits). And I’m not sure, but I think the germination rate was lower as well. Maybe I can get a more ideal temp for seeds to germinate in pots.
Long term, it is better to grow them in-ground, but I think it is good to get them started in pots first. I planted quite a few in-ground, but even after adding rabbit fencing for the later ones, I think there is only 1 seedling left that was direct sown.
It doesn’t need to be 1 seedling per pot either. I had one 7-gal pot where I grew 10 seedlings. After their first year of growth, I knocked the soil out (while they were dormant), and separated the roots. I then planted them in-ground and most are still doing well a couple years later (and starting to fruit).
