They mention at the university that branches die back as the bush matures. They say to just prune them out. Suckers should come up to help also. They say the deeply buried bushes have more trunks coming up out of the ground for redundancy to die back it can help save the bushes.
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When I speak of natural processes like tip die back I’m referring to the big picture. Your right to say don’t expect die back if you mean every year. I think your saying you treat your bush with fungicide, and the soil, water and temperature conditions are perfect so you expect no die back. I meant more in general there will be die back in places like Kansas or Canada it is a natural process. Diseases, weather, and age exist so tip die back is only a matter of time. Drying winter winds, hot sun, cold winters, diseases, insects, storms all factors. In my location if it rains excessively and all the foliage is lush and large and then it moves to the other extreme it can cause problems like die back.
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Maybe normal for you to have this, not here, never seen it.
OK that sounds better. That was all I was saying. I may have never seen it because I spray my stone fruit for brown rot and use 2 combinations of fungicide which can handle leaf spot too.
I have Montmorency in another location and it is disease free. Is not ever sprayed. It’s hard to beat that tree. I like all of them and choosing is like saying what child do you like better?
I guess watch the tree and hope it does not progress. It would be nice to know exactly why so one can treat it properly. Also tip dieback I would agree happens, even from cold, but whole branches is concerning.
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Does this happen with Juliet only or all the Romance series?
@Drew51
I also believe spray schedules are different. We don’t spray anything we don’t have to spray. Your approach to spray as a preventive is different than mine where I spray as a cure.
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I didn’t have any issues with leaf spot on carmine jewel until the combination of heavy crops and frequent rains. I have three carmine jewel bushes. The most over cropped bush suffered the most from leaf spot. It lost most of it’s leaves, which stunted the growth of both the bush and the fruit. The bush that had the lowest crop load (normal full load I think), had only a little bit of leaf spot and the fruit size was about as big as I expected (nickel size). This suggest that fruit load affects resistance to leaf spot or genetics are different between my bushes. The later is a real possibility if they have been propagated by seed or some combination of seed and cloning.
I preemptively sprayed for leaf spot last year and had no issue with it.
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Exactly my experience @AJfromElmiraNY. Hormones in the Bush seem to trigger leaf spot susceptibility issues when fruiting. I’m speaking from experience now with carmine Jewell not Juliet. It’s possible it may be completely hormone related but I think we need to look at nutrients also. Heavy fruit load in apples and pears seems to trigger disease as well. Is it any different with any species? Lots of nutrients are used in the production of fruit weakening the plant. Plants under stress often times fruit. Kansas soil seems to naturally lean more towards fruit production and less towards vegetative growth.
maritime pnw zone 8 has super mild summers compared to zone 8 in say texas or florida, I wonder if the “worst freeze zone” maps well enough if usask is really trying to communicate about a “hottest summer limit”. my bush was actually wholesaled by ANI salem, 50 miles away, and funnily they list it as zone 2-7. I assume they grew it there but maybe not:
https://www.alphanursery.com/catalog.html?0=juliet
@clarkinks and others thanks for the disease notes, maybe it has something, that wasn’t even on my mind. it got ziram and lime sulfur this spring but the dieback may have happened last year
ziram is listed as only “fair” for cherry leaf spot and lime sulfur isn’t listed Cherry (Prunus spp.)-Leaf Spot | Pacific Northwest Pest Management Handbooks
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I do agree with @mamuang and @Drew51 on their points which is if everything is perfect no tip die back will occur that year. The tip die back is an indicator something went wrong. Drying winds , lack of water or nutrients , or disease are all suspects. Those are all normal conditions here the same as in Canada. Frequently during harsh Kansas droughts the tips die back even on my ultra hardy blackberries. Would a cherry be more hardy? Canada has similar climate to Kansas in many ways which is why I enjoy growing their fruits. They are called prairie cherries for a reason. Canada is much colder in some parts of the country but otherwise very similar.
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They were speaking of hard winter dieback I believe. They were talking about how to plant the romance bushes and what they have found with different methods. Planting deep allowed for baring buds that grow out into separate trunks that will root also. The fallback was that you lose about a year of growth the first year. It takes longer for the bush to grow. I tried it with Romeo and it is my smallest bush but it must have four trunks. I’ll try and find the write-up on the romance series and repost it. I believe someone saved it to a sticky here also.
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The link I shared is broken. It is in the romance series thread. They must sell that information now. It was posted in Feb 2016 if you want to look at the comments I forget how to reference it from another thread.
@Drew51 They do get cherry leaf spot here in Michigan. I get it on mine. They show it in this video at MSU. Growing compact sour cherries for high-density systems - Northwest Michigan Horticulture Research Center
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Yes I guess they do. Nice to know. I will keep spraying them. It’s getting near that time for spraying. I’m waiting for pedal drop to finish. Bees are still buzzing around them.
I had a tree removed and had to build a wood rack. The wood will be given away and firewood rack will be turned into a raised bed. I had to put it close to the tree. The raised bed will be farther away.
The leaves look great right now
I’m the spring of 2019 I planted a Wowza. In the fall of 2019 I ran it over with a lawn mower! It’s still rather pathetic looking
Big leaves on this plant! Hey more sugar!!
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When in a hurry I use all that shipping cardboard to kill the weeds. It’s light weight and I need to do something with it.
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I’ve done that. It works well for about one season but you can always add more. You can throw mulch over the top too.
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That is what I do. I redid our bathroom from tile to vanities, everything was replaced. I had cardboard everywhere! I had to throw most of it out. It’s a 10 year supply! I bought some cover crops for my raised beds. Like now I have an open bed 12x4 that is uncovered. Well it has cardboard under compost. I plan to grow corn there this year as I have done this every other year for some time now. Too early to plant yet. Next time I will try a cover crop. I bought annuals only a barley and the only annual clover I heard of. Once I harvest my garlic I will put in a cover crop in those beds. Even if I don’t turn it it will all die and be ready for planting next year.
I’m hyped about removing the tree that shaded morning sun (a 50 footer on the east side of the yard), my fruit trees will now have light from sunrise to sunset.
On leafspot I think one should treat all fungal disease, and those that compromise leaves means less sugar in your fruit. The fruit needs healthy leaves for best possible taste.
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My Juliet had a lot of blooms in early April, but we had a couple nights around 25 soon after it finished blooming, so I had assumed that it wouldn’t set any fruit. But, I noticed yesterday that there were a handful of pea sized cherries. I also noticed a very few of my peaches have some tiny fruitlets as well. So that’s a nice surprise.
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A couple trees that I thought were totally zapped have 1 or 2 fruit. Not great, but I am happy there is something.
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My smaller Romeo was in full bloom when we had the freezes, and it still has most of them, although a lot look bad. So it might set a few fruit, which would be for the first time.
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@clarkinks, @Drew51 or whoever, a question, which may have been asked before. My Juliet has a sucker coming up about a foot from the base of the bush. Can this be dug up and replanted somewhere else, or maybe put in a pot with rooting hormone to get it going? I don’t know how these sucker’s transplant. Also, is there some kind of legal prohibition from transplanting suckers? I know these were developed in Canada, so I don’t know if their patent laws apply here, if this variety is still on patent.
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Carmine Jewell can be divided yes. I’m no lawyer but legally I think propagating these would be discouraged. They grow all over here now so I don’t know how you stop carmine Jewell from sending up new plants. I would not sell them. I know Gurneys parent company has an import fee they had to pay for so you can’t blame them for that.
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