One of my favorite apple varieties is the King of Tompkins County. It is also known as the Tompkins King, and it was originally introduced simply as King because of its huge size. Its history is a bit muddled, but I believe it is native to Jacksonville, a hamlet in Tompkins County, New York. I do not think Jacob Wycoff was lying when he said the first King tree he grew was a seedling. Many decades later, long after Wycoff’s death, horticulturist Liberty Hyde Bailey did an investigation and claimed that the original King of Tompkins County was a grafted tree. Wycoff, however, must have propagated additional King trees by grafting, and since he was not around to direct Bailey’s search, I think Bailey was looking at the wrong tree. The mother of all Kings may have been dead by then.
The story that the tree originated in Warren County, NJ, is based on Wycoff’s migration from a farm near Washington, a borough in Warren County, in 1804. It is supposed, not documented, that he brought scionwood with him.
It was not Wycoff who added Tompkins County to the apple’s name. [Please note that the correct spelling is Tompkins, not Thompkins.] In the 19th Century many apples were called King, so at a meeting of the American Pomological Society in Rochester in 1856, the variety was renamed King of Tompkins County to distinguish from other King apples.
I have a sentimental reason for liking the King of Tompkins County other than having lived in the county. On New Year’s Day in 2004, I had a discussion with my dad about his family’s orchard when he was growing up. He was then 89, but his memory of the 14 apple varieties that grew in the orchard his grandfather started and my grandfather further developed on the farm was quite clear. Dad did need some prompting at times, and when he couldn’t remember the name of his favorite apple and I suggested King of Tompkins County, his face lit up as he said “King” and went on to describe it with crisp detail. He said it was both his and his father’s favorite eating apple. It was large and richly flavored – sweeter than the Baldwin, but with a good touch of tartness. His mother would ask for not-quite-ripe Kings to bake in pies. The apple could get some members of the family in trouble because of its size. Dad’s younger siblings couldn’t finish a whole one, and Grandpap would get upset when he found half eaten apples lying around. Dad remembered his father saying of the King that it “tasted the way an apple is supposed to taste." I’ve heard that phrase used many times about different apples, but this application of those words to the King would have occurred over 100 years ago.
I’m also very pleased this year. There was an old King of Tompkins County tree growing on our property by the creek when we moved here back some 20 years. It died a few years ago, but I was able to take some scionwood from it before it died and used them to graft trees in our orchard. We have been without our own King apples for three years, but there are finally some tiny apples on two King of Tompkins County trees up in the orchard.
Here are pictures of the property where Wycoff planted his orchard. There is no sign or monument nor an orchard. I was told where the location was by the owner of Kingtown Orchard, just over the border from Tompkins County in Seneca County. He grows more Tompkins Kings than any other variety and knows about its history. The house was probably built after Wycoff sold the property. Called “The Trees,” it is now an AIRB&B.
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