I understand. But if you look to your Utah and Dynamic Models they far out pace anything I seldom gets. I get more hours between 45 and 32 than do San Diego, but they swamp me on Utah and Chill Portion accumulations. We can have a respectable amount of chill between 45 and 32, and they are quickly negated by long extended warm periods.
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Whole different climate near the gulf coast, but the same issue with any system that takes away chill hours for warm temps in dormant season.
The different methods of calculating chill hours are all empirical and Iād say based on commercial growing areasā¦rightly so.
Ultimately each variety of tree in each microclimate is going to do what itās going to do.
I think all we can do is use the general guideline for our area and the general estimation of chill requirement to pick our trees. Once we see how a tree behaves in our own climate we can use that perhaps as a basis for how we pick other trees using the same criteria depending on what we observe.
Sadly I regularly find a huge variety of stated chill requirement for the same varietal treeā¦ Just the other day I was looking at a plum I think and found anything from 400 to 900 hours for the same tree.
We can assuming the chill acclimation ends when we see bud swell or bud break but when do we even begin it? First frost? First temp below 45Ā°?
At the end of the day regardless of what is written down about a particular fruit treeās requirements, we still need to see how it actually behaves in our yards.
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Is there any variety better than Korean Giant pear in terms of texture (crispness), sweetness, juiciness and size (size is not that matter as long as not too small)
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I do have others but Iām not sure about flowering overlap. Currently Iām growing ( KG) 20th century, Hosui, Shinseiki and Drippin Honey. My Drippin Honey has produced since year 3. Seldom do I get fruit in many consecutive years due to late freezes.
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Late freeze is an issue anywhere.
In northern areas, several of my pears bloom about the same time or have overlapping their bloom time.
I have heard that in warner areas, pearās bloom time can be quite further apart.
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Depending on location in warmer weather parts, Iād imagine itās not unusual at all for the blooming period to be a bit longer than if the tree were grown with a more consistent winter that turned to spring.
Yes late freezes affect everyone.
This past late March freeze in the southeast devastated the peach industry and of course messed with all us backyard growers. Looking at local records for louisiana it was only the 4th significant freeze that late in the last 120 years or so.
Not something you can plan for or even bother planning for. It just happens.
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I just had 2 blooms on my 20th century.
Itās funny. I have a shinseiki tree that is about 6 years old and has never bloomed. I put some grafts on it this year. Itās in a bad sun exposure spot.
I planted a 3-on-1 20th Century, Hosui, and Shinseiki last spring in a full sun exposure spot. The little tree is only about 5 feet tall. Each of the 3 varieties had a single bloom this year and each set a fruit on that one flower.
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I have Korean giant, chojuro, hosui, niitaka and grafts of Ya Li, Shinseiki, Shinko, drippin honey. My Chojuro has been the most productive with about ten to fifteen fruits each year. My Drippin Honey had fruits the second year.
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I have only sampled Ya Li, Hosui and Shinseiki from that tree. Out of them, I prefer Hosui. Itās possible we picked the Ya Li pears early but other local growers here also prefer Hosui. Whereas many east coast growers have commented in this forum that Korean Giant does best for them
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I got nothing on Chojuro, itās on the same tree as Hosui. I think Hosui could be very productive here in my region.
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