He broke off right near the top shoot. I’ve already ordered another one for replacement, but I wonder if I can save this tree somehow, maybe grafting this part to my Silk Hope or Florida Giant.
So for this graft you basically created a bud stick, since you cut off all the leafs on this year’s wood. But instead of using the bud stick to chip or bud graft, you used it as a scion and cleft grafted to the rootstock. Am I understanding this late season graft experiment correctly? How did it do? Did it take?
Thanks
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In this case it did not take but it can take. The clay has saved grafts but in this case the clay i think caused it to fail. Im going to continue work on a technique. As a side note 1/2 my grafting wood this year had no buds only stubs that are budless. Most all of those grafts were successfull.
Thanks for the “bud stick” clarification, I understand what your are saying What’s your thoughts on giving a peach graft a try this late in the season? I’m thinking, I won’t know unless I give it a try.
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Hi Clark.
Very good advice of the plastiline, if you are going to graft on the weekend, we do not have grafting putty at home, and the shops are closed.
In my region, which is clayey-calcareous soil, in the past small farmers took clay from the soil, added a little water to make a malleable clay, and used it as grafting putty (the grafting mastic that we know today was not yet commercialized).
Regards
Jose
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I just grafted my largest variety of Lychee, I also air layered this tree, my last ditch effort to save it, because I’m going to dig it up this fall. Not sure it will survive the move, but at this point I don’t care anymore, after 8 years no fruit, what a free loader, lol
Air layer
This tree puts out some fruit, so I’m keeping it for now, but I will redo the bed, it’s on a slope, not good.
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@Jose-Albacete have you ever considered mentoring on-line? If so, I would be interested in learning from you.
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Never let anyone tell you that you cannot graft all year long it is just different. Here are a couple of grafts i used tinfoil hats on to reflect the heat. I attached the hats with clay to the grafts. There is documented proof from 22 days ago i did these grafts in 100 degree+ heat!
After a number of years of grafting i started to build in safeguards at times. Persimmon scions are sometimes very hard to find. Had a few good types here i didn’t want to lose so i did a cleft on top but i also did a side graft. In this case the side graft paid off. Owls hunt this area frequently using any perch as a valuable asset to hunt rabbits and mice from. The storms here can be excessive. The top graft was broken off which is dissapointing but i still did not get set back a year of grafting if i could ever find scions again. Notice i rubbed off any extra foliage that grew out. Sometimes i leave one of the new branches to act as a nurse branch for my grafts for a couple of weeks or months depending on the year. We did cool down to 80s and 90s sometimes. The evenings dip into the 60s or 70s. These are the persimmons Claypool H-118 , and Claypool A-33 to be specific.
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Sweet!
Are those plums? Can’t quite tell from the leaves
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They are persimmons. They tend to like heat better than most grafts! That is why i put them off until after i grafted my pears in the spring.
My late season pear grafts i had a 99% take rate using the same methods i used above without the tinfoil.
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I should have known by how thick the wood is. I’ve not grown persimmon so I’m not so familiar.
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Persimmon are a mysterious tree in many ways but very rewarding to grow. Can’t recommend them highly enough! Persimmon breeding is still in its infancy. In our lifetime i hope to see many amazing improvements to these valuable fruits.
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Inspired by this thread, about 3 weeks ago tried grafting some plums using scions cut from this season’s new growth. The two pictures below were taken a few days ago. Both are “Robusto” chickasaw/japanese scions. One is grafted on native chickasaw rootstock, the other on a purple leaf plum cultivar (prunus cerasifera) which is very well adapted to my climate and soil. Both have grown great, and should have plenty of time to grow and harden off before first frost. Thanks for the inspiration to give this a try.
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What I love about this thread is that it makes you think outside the box.
If you are always told something is a certain way, you never think of testing it, trying something new, or innovating.
If you want to try it, try it. The great thing about gardening is trying new things is usually not an expensive risk to take.
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You said it very well! Every year grafts fail there is a reason why. Sometimes it is incompatibility. Graft or tree doesn’t always have adequate moisture. Temperatures can swing wildly causing graft failures if the scions dry out before the graft takes. Oil from the graft can seap into the graft union preventing callusing etc. I’m very thankful for the difficult callery pears i grafted years ago. Failure taught me many more lessons than success. Have grafted things in ways that will hopefully benefit people for many years to come. As others like those who post on this thread put themselves out there and try something new we will learn from it. Every time we get better at what we do. @haldog is in zone 7b and had no problem with late season grafting. Experts will tell us that type of grafting can only be done in early spring. A years growth on a fruit tree is going to put us in fruits from a tree an entire year earlier!
It does not seem like it but this old thread was over 5 years ago. Will fall-budded buds swell at the same time as the tree budded to? . @fruitnut put up this thread to help people with late season grafting
T-budding tutorial . There are many inspiring posts in that thread!
“Mine grew into a tree now. @fruitnut did a great tutorial T-budding tutorial - #41 by BobVance - Guides - Growing Fruit Which I think will answer about anything you want to know about tbud grafting. That’s where I learned and I tried it a couple of times with fantastic results. I did this tbud graft in July of 2016. Here is a photo overview. Pictures for some reason always get shuffled out of order but these photos give you the process start to finish and it’s now been nearly 2 years ago since I initially grafted.
”
Those tbuds are now 30 foot tall trees! @JesusisLordandChrist on this thread The price of fruit trees is too expensive - #504 by Shibumi mentioned that people literally cannot afford a fruit tree now. That is very true , many families are spending more on 1 fruit tree than i spent on 30 fruit trees. If only the ultra wealthy have fruit trees and the people who need them most cannot afford them then we have reverted to the old system of peasants and royalty.
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So here’s a question.
Can you graft first year growth to first year growth?
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Green wood to green wood can be done and i have done it. It takes very delicate touch or it breaks off or wilts in your fingers. New growth is very fragile. Grafting watermelon to pumpkin is discussed here Can't grow watermelon but can grow pumpkins? which is green vegetable growth. Have only done it with pears myself.
Hmmmm.
Thanks. Males sense. I can see where it would be more difficult.
I have a first year Minnie Royal Cherry that is doing very well worth lots of growth. I have a Royal Lee which is it’s pollinator (and visa versa) which only had two small branches of new growth and it droops a lot, though it’s getting the same watering.
My fear is I lose the Lee. Thought of grafting a piece to Minnie.
Actually since Minnie is doing so well, I can probably cut back to last year’s wood on one branch.
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