It depends, I T-budded some peaches last weekend onto green shoots (grafting high for deer protection) and the wood was slipping well. I did 50-50 chip budding and T budding and will see how the results compare. Chip budding doesn’t need the wood to slip so that is what I usually do, but some of the scions are a bit weak and I thought T might be a bit better for those.
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I guess I’ll do a mixture of Tee and chip.
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Mostly Chip budding.
I use upside T-budding with orange。
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I found budding with peaches apricots in the fall has very high percentage of success.
I did some in the August, 100% success.
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I did two chip buds last night. I’ll see how it comes out.
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You and me both! I did two chip buds and one cleft graft last night. I’ve been trying to graft Williams pride onto my Yello transparent since last fall. It keeps failing. I’m doing well with everything else but can’t seem to get this one right.
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I did some t-buds on apples awhile back (3), they failed. Then I chip budded them, about the 20th of September I’ll know if they took.
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I chip bud persimmons in the spring with good success .
And have chip budded apples and peaches in late summer / fall with good luck .
Last year I tried chip budding persimmon in late summer , with poor results , some took , most failed .
Anyone have good luck fall chip budding persimmons ?
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Persimmons are pretty sensitive to coldness. A lot of varieties can’t survive the winter in 6B. I wonder how you expect new grafts in the fall can be so tough to go through winter.
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I have many American persimmon varietys that are perfectly cold hardy here . If the chip buds " take " in late summer / fall they survive winter fine.
Just had bad luck with " takes" last year.( late summer/ fall)
Some did good , just a low percentage.
And wondered if anyone has a " good " report.?
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I’d be willing to throw a few bucks your way for some budwood.
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Update:
My cleft grafts stayed dormet through the rest of summer and fall and budded out this spring. I may try something like that again late this summer just to see if it was luck or if it can reliably be done.
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In July 2019 I cleft-grafted a green branch from one of my nectarine trees to another, a month later the graft leaved-out but no further growth happened. This year this graft had three nice and strong branches growing out of it, successfully converting one scaffold to a different variety. To me that’s better than any summer budding.
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Hi Hillbilly
This spring around March 1st, I performed a number of chip buds to add more varieties to my Chocolate tree. About the time the trees buds were breaking I unwrapped the bud part only of each chip bud leaving the graft wrapped with parafilm mainly to make certain no mold was forming that would damage the buds. Then today I inspected each: although each one appears very healthy None have yet broken out even though we have been in the 70’s for about 4 weeks here in Seattle area. But I noticed that my parafilm was too tight causing some girdling, so I removed all parafilm and rewrapped each graft with a more gentle sealing plastic to keep buds protected. My question is this: Do you tip prune above the budgrafts to encourage them to grow during this summer? Or should I wait until next spring to prune just above each graft. The tree is currently full of fruit but I could prune all limbs to stop terminal growth at this time and encourage my new chip buds to grow. Any ideas about next step? I would appreciate knowing what has worked for you.
Sincerely
DennIs Dowdy
By chocolate , i assume you are speaking of persimmon.
I chip bud early as soon as temps are suitable and cut everything off above the bud then, forcing the bud into growth early , it’s getting late to force new growth this year as it is almost August .
You may be best to force that bud next spring,as any growth now may not harden off by winter.?
May want to get another opinion from someone in your area.?
Interesting. I just posted this to the 2020 grafting thread;
You have my results Randall to further support your finding 
. Go for it, but I think covering the graft with foil or paper bag is necessary to protect from the intense summer sun. Also, removing other competing branches helps a lot, whether you are grafting in summer or spring.
This August I accidentally cut off a branch of Yakima plum that I had successfully grafted a few years ago. I took two pencil thick pieces about 12 inches long and cleft grafted them to a full size Santa Rosa plum tree. Each scion had two leaves. I just noticed a few days ago that they both still have their two leaves and one of them was two 6 inch new branches. I’m going to try some additional summer grafting next year.
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