I am pretty sure Scott and others would help you.
However, would you mind posting your questions and pictures in the General Fruit category, please?
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absolutely. Thanks!
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…and this is how to nail down Brown Rot, according to Penn State:
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I haven’t found the need to time the sprays as days before harvest like they do. Given that most of the time from June through September I have some stone fruit variety ripening I just hit them all when spraying. Usually I am spraying only monthly in the hot July and August and I get little brown rot. Also I never spray anything if harvest is a week or less away, whatever the PHI is. It is not needed if you beat it back thoroughly ahead of time.
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I seem to remember seeing a thread with mixing dosages at some point. Does anybody know which thread I’m talking about? Maybe we can link that to this thread?
This one? :
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Yup that’s the one! I used all the wrong search words. 
Thanks Andy.
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Michael Phillips supports the use of solid neem to apply after borer removal and on damaged areas. I have tried it and it is amazing how long the fat keeps it on the tree after a season of heavy rains.
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He may have gotten that idea from me, I have been doing it for 5+ years now and it has eliminated the peach borer problems I had.
I’m not sure it is the best thing for apples as someone here had a tree die after a neem coating. I was going to do some experiments myself on apples to see but never got around to it.
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I have heard of the use of womens foot covers (like the ones you try on when you dont have socks) being soaked in surround, placed over quarter size fruit and tied in place by twist ties or similar. The footies expand as the fruit grows and provide a barrier to pests. Obviously not a consideration for larger operations, but for the backyard grower hoping for some nice peaches when pest pressure is high, it seemed like an idea. I did a trial on one peach tree and there were no pest problems at all. I have used the surround sprays successfully on some fruit, but less so on nectarines. It just doesnt stick. Im considering the “footie” idea for those. Any thoughts?
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Several people here have had good luck with the Surround footies for moths, that is a good plan I would say. HOS was selling them pre-soaked not too long ago. … looks like they still are: https://www.homeorchardsociety.org/fruit-sox/
The reference I put above is mainly focused on what I do myself, not all the possible methods. I should probably expand to include more good options at some point.
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I am bookmarking this and going to give it a throrough read!
You could have knocked me over on that one! I had no idea they were sold on a site. I actually purchased a large box off footies, and then soaked them myself. I dont quite understand the no tying part, because it would seem important to me to eliminate entry points. Glad to hear it is being used with success.
If you use a search function and put in “ Best peach bags”, you will find answers.
In my experience, foot Sox, aka footsies, with or without Surround, do not work on peaches. Plum Curculio and Oriental fruit moths lay eggs through the materials. The only bags that work for peaches are paper bags. I call them Clemson peach bags because Clemson U.sells them.
I will stop now because I would like this thread to be about Scott’s Low Impacted Spray 
If you have questions about bagging for fruit protection, you can post questions on the General Fruit Growing category. Several of us have bagged our fruit.
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Thanks for the clarification. I am pretty sure some people had good luck with them on peaches but I now remember that you did not. If I ever decide to add something about bagging I had better re-read all the discussions!
I had repeated experience of those buggers laying eggs through them. I thought I took and posted a pic, too. I recalled a couple of people had the same experience.
Clemson bags are best if the timing is good.
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We will be spraying peaches, pears, and apples this year. VA zone 6b. If I understand correctly, the best spray timing probably means spraying these at different times as they bloom at different times – or-- with a sticker (Nufilm I think is what we have) would it be ok to spray all at the same time? I feel a bit stupid asking this question, but I have sometimes seen on other websites mentions of spraying (esp. copper) at intervals from silver tip, bud break , to petal fall…am I missing something? Is dormant spray meant to be done several times, or not (assuming it didn’t rain immediately after the spray). My husband will be doing the spraying this year and I need to have it clear to tell him what and when. lol
If I am understanding your guide correctly, you do not use copper on any of the fruits listed, not even pears unless you’ve seen serious fireblight the year before? Last two years we used copper in dormant spray (only fireblight I saw was blossom strikes on apple variety I’ve now topworked); we purchased lime-sulfur for this year. I should add we did not spray in fall so I don’t know how that will affect what we need to do now. I have attempted to choose varieties listed as fireblight resistant based on reading on this forum and elsewhere-- both in pears and apples – but will admit I’m nervous about not using copper. I don’t want build up though.
Any advantage of copper on peaches vs. lime-sulfur except for leaf curl (which I’ve not experienced at this point)?
And, is pruning AFTER spraying concerning (i.e. open wounds not covered with spray)…the apple and pear trees will be pruned prior to spray but I was thinking of waiting till almost or in-bloom on the peaches because we are prone to late frosts. (despite that meaning more spray to use on wood we’d cut off later).
You can do your (single) dormant spray all at the same time, as long as bloom has not started on anything you will be good. Closer to bloom is better as the nasties have started to wake up a bit and will be more shocked.
These days I usually use copper in the spring on peaches and apricots only. I don’t have fireblight problems. Peach leaf curl is not a problem for me so I don’t spray for it.
I always prune before spraying but not sure it matters much.
Scott,
Is there a fungus problem on the Apricots?bb
Thanks, Scott!
You have provided so much good info in this one single post. I have a Beauty plum for 3 years now, but I never sprayed anything on it. PC got most of the fruits. I only pick whatever left, but the fruits are already very good. So this year I plan to spray the tree following your schedule. Hopefully will get much more and better fruits. I am also adding a few plum trees this year because the fruits are so good and the trees are so beautiful.
I do have a question - I heard it’s more difficult to grow apples than plums. Is it true? By looking at your spray schedule, it seems not that bad. It seems almost the same effort (if not less) as growing plums. I am thinking to try one or two apple trees, but always thought it would be too difficult (too much effort) to get decent fruits. Another factor that stops me is that CAR is a big problem in my neighborhood because there are a lot of cedar trees nearby. I see the spots on the leaves of the crab apple trees and other hawthorn trees. All over them. I walked around in the nearby communities and saw many different fruit trees, like pears, persimmons, jujubes, but did not see one single apple tree. The funny thing is that VA is a big producer for apples and all the articles claim VA is a good place for apples. So I am really lost. Maybe just good for commercial growers?