Low Tunnel Winter Protection (Figs, etc.)

The following is a more cursory explanation of my my low tunnel winter protection scheme that I used for in ground figs this past winter (but could be adapted to suit many cold sensitive perennials). A more thorough explanation is available here-- Low Tunnel Winter Fig Protection - Ourfigs.com

I am in zone 6a, Finger Lakes, NY. This particular site is more likely 5b but is wide open with a good wind break to the north.

-1/2" EMT, 3 feet wide, 42" tall after 1’ sunk in ground on either side (I’m considering using 3/4" EMT anchor tubes to increase height next go around)
-GG-34 1.0oz Medium Row Cover
-GG-51 1.5oz Heavy Row Cover
-6 mil plastic (MCA construction type)
-Figs were planted (deeply as possible while keeping enough buds above ground) into a 2 feet wide, maybe 1 foot tall berm
-Wireless Thermometers: outside of tunnel, inside of tunnel, stuck into ground (maybe 2" deep, best I could do as a ground temp)

With that setup I was able to keep that tunnel above about 17F all winter. At one point it was -8.5F outside and about 28F inside the tunnel, but that was after I heaped snow onto the tunnel–one benefit of it being so low. Unfortunately, I did not have the thermometers setup in time for the post Thanksgiving freeze. A nearby low tunnel I used for carrots (5 feet wide, only 1.0oz medium row cover) registered 14F. The fig tunnel had both the medium and heavy row cover at that time. Still, I suspect significant damage was done at this time–15F in November is probably much worse than 10F in January. The other caveat is that these fig trees were planted too late–about end of July. They looked to senesce, lignify properly but maybe looks are deceiving.

Ignore the solar collector, I didn’t get that setup in time–maybe this winter.

Link to wireless thermometers, scroll down to the graphs and switch to monthly to quickly peruse temperature differences. Click on filter and turn off the Blueprint, and JV Greenhouse temperatures and humidity to simplify if you like-- Temp Link


59691394_858964061107159_70943125143593943059691394_858964061107159_7094312514359394304_n 4_n|690x920 !
59968727_599649443887571_1056677240328159232_n|690x920 !

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That is a very sophisticated setup. If you want to increase your insulation it might help to have air gaps in between the layers. I had excellent results wintering my figs in compost socks by creating a still air layer between layers of black ground cover with empty 10-20 seed flats or boards (seed flats worked better). Totally green plants that had 7 ft. of growth or more survived intact. In your setup leaving the inner layer loose so it sags down and creates a gap between the outer cover should do the same thing.

I’ve got some really fond memories of Watkins Glen where my grandparents lived. One time fishing on the pier a lake trout the size of Jaws tried to eat a perch I caught, it was so big it scared me!

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The row covers are supposed to breathe (though I’ve seen good [intentional] temperature spikes from leaving them down this spring to push the figs) but I’m sure you’re right. I’m debating a radiant foil layer but want to keep the cost down, and these rows will be in 100 ft increments since that’s a common length for poly. Current row is six trees, 50 feet.

All I catch is lakeweed, but definitely some good trout up here too.

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I’ll have an update on winter survival soon but now we’re onto the 2019 growing and planting season. I do not recommend building a berm by hand. Nor can I recommend planting 25 gallon pots deeply to bring down their height. And especially not on an 88 degree day…

Six more trees into the fray. This time the victims are–two more Chicago Hardys, an AJH, Atreano, MBVS, and Syrian Long. Not much thought was given to variety, more to maturity. These trees are undergoing remediative pruning and training to a cordon system (so they’re largely ugly things at the moment).

*Apologies to OurFigs readers (this is cross posted there). I figure it’s a system that can be used for other fruits, especially if they fruit on current year growth.

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I’ve only planted a few larger container trees, aside from being more work to plant and time to grow the looser potting mix gives meadow voles the opportunity to burrow in for the winter and eat the entire crown. I don’t know if they are common up there or if pine voles could also be a bigger problem.

I plant pint to gallon size, the key is putting out a hardened plant. When planting newly rooted ~3 month/one foot cuttings in June they should not be fertilized for about 3-4 weeks prior so growth stops, and gradually acclimated to full sun and allowed to lightly wilt in between waterings so the leaves toughen. The other way I do it is dormant plants in April, when I don’t want to water them as much. It helps to use a loose mix like pine bark so the roots don’t get too damaged. I’ve never lost one out of hundreds but the bare rooting does stress young cuttings and they will probably lose some leaves before they get growing.

I don’t know where the idea that a fig tree needs to be planted mature to do well. You might be planting bigger trees for a different reason but that is also the standard advice. I know Jon who owns figs4fun practiced that, but his soil in San Diego looked like cobblestones so I think that was right for him. VS (Herman2) used to plant more mature trees but changed his mind about 4-5 years ago… He said before that the previous owners of his house used lots of lawn herbicides that killed stuff for years so he would also have done better with a bigger planting hole until those wore off.

I was planting large in part because I was following conventional wisdom (that more mature trees have a better recovery rate if they suffer winter damage), and logistics–I got those trees pretty cheap and don’t have much appetite for managing large potted trees.

My next round of planting, hopefully this weekend, is mostly 5 gallon pots so it’ll be interesting to be able to compare (though the second site is a little better protected).

I didn’t have any problems with voles this year, maybe because of how open the site is, but I definitely plan on having a couple layers of protection against them next winter.

Planting that deep should discourage the voles from burrowing all the way down, if you have any stone to put around the trunk that will stop them from digging also. They are particularly bad when using black ground cover for weeds, the first year at least they like to eat the blanched shoots from grapevines and other perennials.

I did lose a bunch of seedlings this winter that had been in 3 gallon containers for 2 years, I left them unprotected because a buck rubbed most of them anyway so I figured the best I could do would be to let them all start from the ground. They were growing really vigorously into the fall and that is all I can figure as to why they died, I’ve had plenty of others come back from being rubbed and left unprotected.

Stones would be a good idea. The south/east half has a layer of gravel on top (not that it’s stopped many of the weeds) that may have helped. In the spring I put some fine hardware cloth around the trunks, I’ll have to get that on in the fall this go around.

Yeah I think most of the damage my trees suffered was due to the late planting time and late growth. Definitely going to use a snow blower for free insulation next winter too, shoveling grew old fast and now I’ll have twice the row…

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Not much to report so far. Site A (original site, 6 trees planted in 2018, 6 more in 2019) still doesn’t have its full winter protection in place as I’m waiting for the snow to completely melt, and the temps are mild so no rush. It has the heavy row cover and 6 mil (10 ft wide) plastic from last year which does not quite seal on the ground due to the increased height of the tunnel. Also, last year’s plastic does not appear to be fully UV stabilized… I have some 12 foot wide plastic (4 mil overwinter plus) that I got from AM Leonard for around $40 (12’x110’) that will go on this week. On 12/18 I used a snowblower to mound as much snow on the edges as I could.

12/7
Outside temp: 7.5F
Under tunnel: 18.3F

12/19
Outside: 3.4F
Tunnel: 16.9F

12/20
Outside: 3.7F
Tunnel: 16.7F

The 12/19-20 temperatures under the tunnel are definintely due to the snow insulation. It may be that low tunnels (at least in my configuration) are more useful in areas that have decent snowfalls–so maybe better in Colorado and Maine than in Maryland. In a place like Colorado I’d definitely use white plastic as my outer layer. I had planned on using white plastic on one of the tunnels this year but AM Leonard called me back and said they didn’t have it in stock in 12’ widths.

A little more data just for “fun”. I’ve had a temperature recorder in an unheated greenhouse (96’ length, 22’ish width, single 6 mil poly layer) for curiosity’s sake. The lowest temp it recorded (contrast this with above outside numbers) was 16F on 12/20. On average in the last month, the outside temperature was 31.5F, under the tunnel 34.4F, and in the unheated greenhouse 36.1F. We’re really only interested in the low temp, not average, but still interesting.

Site B (24 trees planted 2019) has the full protection in place (heavy row cover, 4 mil 12’ wide overwinter plus clear poly) but no temperature recordings yet. I’ll get that setup right after New Years. There is a weather station maybe a 1/4 mile away, however. Site B is much warmer than A despite being just 15 miles apart as the crow flies.

Lows
12/7: 18.8F
12/19: 9.1F
12/20: 11.9F

A few bad pictures showing some tip die back but no obvious significant winter injury damage to date (site A).


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Cross-posted on OurFigs so forgive the repetition if you already saw that thread.

Timeline
11/10- Heavy row cover placed on both sites (1.5oz).
12/9- Poly placed on both sites (3.5mil overwintering Ginegar)

Temperature Highlights (lowlights?)
**11/12: 20.7F in Low Tunnel, 13.8F outside (rc only).
11/16: 15.6F in LT, 13.8F outside (rc only).
1/20: 9.9F in LT, -2F outside.
**2/7: 25F in LT, -0.9F outside.
2/14: 14.5F in LT, -5.4F outside.

On the dates marked with ** there was significant snowfall and I used a snowblower to make a figloo (see pictures from last year). As you can see from the dates/temps immediately following the ** dates, the benefit of snow cover doesn’t stick around forever. The 9.9F on 1/20 was the lowest temperature the figs experienced.

Successes and Failures
By using 3/4" anchor legs, I increased the height of the tunnel a foot. This presented several problems. The first was that the 10 foot wide row cover from last year just barely covered the hoop space, and in reality it didn’t cover the space because of the wind pulling it up or it getting shifted when the poly was adjusted. The 12 foot wide overwintering poly was adequate but tended not to seal at the junction with the anchor legs. Just in the last few weeks I finally found a solution to this by using 1/2" irrigation tubing stakes. These are strong (enough), cheap, and won’t rip the poly (see pic). The taller height meant greater risk to wind, and at one point before I had all the rope ties in place a couple hoops went sideways…

On two of the three tunnels I had a fruiting wire for the fig trees to be wrapped along (cordon style). This made sealing the ends difficult. Next year I think I’m going to make rigid end “caps” made of foam board and plywood that will affix to the last hoop. That way even if the poly isn’t a perfect seal at the end it won’t matter much. On one tunnel I threaded a wire through the middle/top point of each hoop to act as a purlin. One bad mistake I made was drilling the holes for the purlin wire before bending the hoop. The EMT conduit would crimp on that hole and at best you’d be left with a more gothic looking hoop… This tunnel had no structural problems but again had problems sealing on the ends.

Another “bright idea” I had was collecting the hard work of others and trying to use it for a wind break. I drove around and loaded up bagged leaves from my neighbors and placed them against the tunnel on the side facing the prevailing winds. This may have helped but it makes inspecting the seal hard. I’ll say the jury is still out on this.

Spring Complications
Because of how late and cool last spring/summer was many of us are aiming to push the action this year. I’m leaving the poly and row cover down to try the same. For those of us in the northeast the sun starts to pack some punch beginning in early February, this is also when you pass 10 hours of sun each day. From 2/14-3/18 average temp in the low tunnel was 39.3F, while outside it was 34.3F (5F difference). From 11/12-2/14 there was just a 3F difference between average temp in the tunnel and without. Now that 2/14-3/18 difference is mostly from temperature spikes in the mid-afternoon. As my last two photos show, this seems to be having an effect on an earlier bud break. I have over a month until my traditional last frost date so I’m certainly taking a risk (about the same as Apricot growers, as they just started to bloom early this week). I don’t really trust the poly, row cover to protect the figs from a hard freeze so I’ve been preparing to artificially heat if something like 27F is forecasted.

Overall
I should have given myself more time to bend the hoops and get the skeletal structure setup. Playing from behind, I never felt like I was able to get everything buttoned up properly. Thankfully this mild winter didn’t punish me too bad. The 30 trees I planted last year all suffered significant damage. In another month I’ll be able to say how much. I do think the trees are much hardier going into their second winter. Combining that hypothesis (weak first winter hardiness) with my setup issues has me considering a simplified protection for the first winter following planting, then switching to a low tunnel before the second winter.

I did build a simple plywood, foam board insulation house that could protect a 30 inch whip (affectionately known as the fig coffin). I had a temperature recorder inside but I won’t be able to read it for at least another month (covid shutdown equipment access issue). I also had a temp recorder under foam pipe insulation I wrapped around a fig whip in the tunnel. I’ll see those results at some point too.

I included a couple pics taken 3/31 of chickweed and purple deadnettle going nuts under the tunnel.

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Another round of low tunnel winter protection almost complete. I only had to reconstruct the bones of one of the tunnels after installing landscape fabric this spring so that sped things up-- a helper also makes easy work of attaching the rope ties.

This year I’m trying a tunnel within a tunnel design. In one configuration I made inner tunnels just under 4 feet in circumference using soft 9 gauge wire. That length was chosen so that I could use materials I could only find in 4 foot width. In another style, I ran a draping wire over the fruiting/tying wire. This lets me make a teepee inside the outer tunnel, and still without the covering material touching the tree (which I suspect causes lots of problems because of the condensation build up). I still need to pull the teepee wide as it’s just draping now, so either some sandbags or a couple wires with tarp clips (continuing the tradition of overcomplicating things) will do the trick.

I finally ponied up for 6 mil greenhouse plastic for the outer covering of all three tunnels, while the inner materials will be 1.5 oz row cover and 2.5 mil overwintering plastic (both used last year). One tunnel will have a layer of 2 mil mylar as the innermost layer that I hope will reflect the ground heat.

I still need to collect my sensor materials which will consist of an Ecowitt Gateway 1000, and several WH31 sensors that are compatible with Ecowitt or Ambient Weather stations. I’ll be using one WH31P sensor that has a wired probe to measure the temperature under the mylar cover (which I’d think would mess with the radio waves otherwise).

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