I thought it would be helpful to point out that I seem to be getting adequate control of this in southern NYS and nearby CT locations with one spray about July 7th and a second a month later of myclobutanil mixed with captan and a sticker at highest legal rates.
It is legal if you tell yourself you are fighting summer fungus- the usual ones, FS and SB.
I will do this, thanks. What’s a good sticker?
I hear Bonide Turbo is good but I use a latex based product only available through distributors of Loveland products called Tactic. It costs about $80 bucks a gallon and two cups can be mixed with 100 gallons of spray mix. Years ago I read it is the best of major brands used in commercial production, but I do not know the extent of its advantage.
Southern AG Products makes one that looks like about the same formula as the Bonide product and they are usually quite reasonably priced. None made for “backyard orchards” seem to contain latex.
Time to spray. Thanks for the info. I had major defoliation last year.
Just read that myclobutanil is systemic; hadn’t realized that before. But must have short lifespan as I think label said ok to use up to 14 days pre-harvest.
A short preharvest date often means a pesticide is safe to eat in small amounts. Myclo is as long lasting a fungicide as we have- I use it in spring for absolute control of scab and CAR most sites with only two sprays as much as 14 days apart.
I don’t know about myclo but Indar’s label permits spraying stone fruit on day of harvest, and, like myclo, is locally systemic, so it is absolutely legal to eat. You cannot wash it off. They should make the stuff with vanilla flavoring- chocolate would fly off the produce bins. .
@alan Is it a good idea to spray fungicide on the ground under an apple tree (plus leaves) when the fungus target over-winters in leaf litter?
I believe the experts recommend spraying them with lime in the fall or just disposing of the leaves either fall or early spring. If the label doesn’t allow for it, it’s probably illegal to spray the fallen leaves. Of course labels don’t even mention MLB yet so your are officially spraying other fungus.
Does MLB inflict Euro plums? This year is obviously very wet, and disease pressure is very high. I sprayed my apples with Infuse/NuFilm on July 28, still this week I am seeing heavy infection on my Hoople’s Antique Gold (among the 8 apple varieties I have HAG seems to be the most susceptible to both MLB and Cedar Apple Rust).
I am also observing very similar leaf discoloration and defoliation symptoms on all my Euro plums (Mirabelle de Nancy, Empress and Golden Transparent Gage seem to be the most affected, but all show significant level of disease). I am starting to suspect that MLB affects Euro plums too. No symptoms on Japanses plums or pluots.
I have never tested E. plums and don’t know it is MLB or Bac Spot that is causing them to defoliate, but I’m guessing it is the latter, because of the spotty way in which it is infecting trees. Some get it and some don’t in my nursery and there’s no correlation to variety. Same deal with sweet cherries.
Honestly, I haven’t really looked into it… maybe I should. A lot of E plums in my nursery are not giving me adequate growth and they used to.
2021 Marssonina caused almost complete apple defoliation. Last year no problem with last captan spray August 6th and sulfur spray in Sept. This year Captan August 6th again. No problems so far.
How many summer sprays?
My orchard so far this year shows no MLB except on Chestnut Crab grafts. Only spray was one shot of Immunox at petal fall on Goldrush.
This year I sprayed apples June 21 and August 6 with Captan and Luna Sensation. Looks very good so far.
Last year I sprayed Captan twice in June, once in July and once August. Also sprayed sulfur in September. I was very concerned because of defoliation 2021.
Here is an updated version of guidelines.
How did it hold up?
