Someone shared a comprehensive list according to Marta I think on which ones will root easily. Some won’t, I know Illinois doesn’t root well, I failed with mine and also had a delayed graft failure on mine which shocked me.
Dwarf everbearing, Pakistani, shangri la and Maui all rooted with zero effort for me however
Illinois and dwarf everbearing are two different varieties of everbearing mulberries. Dwarf everbearing has small leaves while the Illinois has the more standard big mulberry leaf. Illinois also has bigger fruit and is a bigger tree in general.
Yes, I’ve also found some mulberry varieties root extremely easily. I don’t know it’s cold hardiness, but I got one untagged variety from Restoring Eden that is the easiest plant I’ve ever tried to root. I had pruned off it’s new lower shoots to make it into a tree and stuck them into a few random pots with some rooting hormone. The growing tip on the top cutting never slowed, and there were roots running well out the drain holes on all their pots within a week. This is the tree I got the cuttings off of:
Hi. Here’s our data from a couple of years back when we tried to root a bunch of different varieties. We seemed to have better luck with IE and Kip Parker by keeping the cuttings in darkness for a few weeks before introducing light. -Mark
I tried rooting gerardi mulberry once… 2 months time in moist promix hp… not one single root.
It must be one of those that just does not root easily.
I had no problems grafting it and had good luck grafting kip parker and lawson dawson.
The ones I grafted to the russian rootstock… (late spring early summer) are 5 ft tall now with scaffold branches developing. If I had grafted them earlier when mulberries first leaf out… they would have some nice scaffolds already.
You might be able to start your rooting attempt mid winter and make the same progress.
Is there any reason to use Russian Mulberry rootstock? vs rooting?
Like do you get any dwarfing, precociousness/early-bearing, less root suckering, etc?
Other than the advantage if it was on its own roots if it ever breaks the main trunk low in a storm, then still have the same variety. Any other advantages?
@armyofda12mnkeys … i would say grafting to a good rootstock would be better if you are working with a variety like gerardi (known to be very difficult to root) but fairly easy to graft.
Also if you wanted more growth that first season… the russian mulberry rootstock I got from BRN had some big stout healthy roots on them. The grafts took quickly and grew like crazy. They got to 4 ft tall quickly and I planted them out in my orchard and they never slowed down.
With rooted cuttings I expect all of that would go a little slower.
Some varieties just dont root well or at all so its better to just graft them. I tried rooting White Pakistani and got 1 tiny root in 5 months. That’s just not worth the effort even if it does work. It’s easier to just graft.
With that said, I prefer having my mulberries on their own roots. They seem to do better generally, unless you are starting with a bigger tree that you are grafting onto, but its just not feasible for some varieties.
They are very different. The dwarf everbearing from the big box stores roots very easily. Illinois Everbearing is not known to root very well.
Can you take a photo of your tree (Illinois Everbearing) and post it. I have one of those as well but don’t know which one I have. My tree is large/tall so if it’s the one you need, I can trade you some cuttings from it. The berries on the tree is super small, taste is ok, not good.